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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've tried to have this diagnosed at multiple dealers and they can never seem to "re-create" the issue.
2011 Challenger R/T Classic
Car starts , stalls, then keeps cranking over for a short period. After it stops cranking it will start and stay running.
Some times if I push the start button without foot on brake, wait until all chimes & dash lights go off, then start it stays running.
I've been living with this issue since the car was about 3 years old.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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Fuel pump? I have a question mark after that because it is hard to believe a fuel pump being the cause of this behavior would not have gone ahead and failed outright by now.

Thus I would suspect a fuel pressure problem. The fuel pump supplies the necessary fuel and at the right pressure and the engine starts but the fuel pressure (or supply) drops and the engine dies. Upon an attempted restart the fuel pressure/supply is ok and the engine fires up and runs normally.

Even this is rather hard to accept. Also, I would expect a CEL with a low fuel pressure error code logged.

Which leaves possibly an ignition switch as the problem.

It is important you note very carefully the conditions/steps you follow when the engine dying symptom appears. Is the engine cold, hot or ? Is the car parked level or on an incline? Is the gas tank full, half full or low? And so on.

Also, can you affect the behavior by carefully pushing the start button in straight then at other times with some sideways pressure? Of if you wiggle the button as you push it in?

If this is supported with your vehicle remove the button cover and use the key blade to see if this behavior still occurs.
 

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2011 SXT Canadian Built Challenger
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I've tried to have this diagnosed at multiple dealers and they can never seem to "re-create" the issue.
2011 Challenger R/T Classic
Car starts , stalls, then keeps cranking over for a short period. After it stops cranking it will start and stay running.
Some times if I push the start button without foot on brake, wait until all chimes & dash lights go off, then start it stays running.
I've been living with this issue since the car was about 3 years old.
Without the Brake Pushed it should not Start at all.... Bad Switch, Bad Relay, Fuel Pump / Fuel Pressure....
 

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2012 Challenger R/T Classic 5.7L,Kook LT,Borla ATAK,Comp 270 cam,Hellcat valve train,AiraidCAI
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332 Posts
Have the same problem with my 12 R/t Classic. Had it in the shop for 5 days while they were trying to figure it out. They were able to replicate the problem one time in those 5 days (very aggravating). The final diagnosis was to run it until it fails and tow it in. Not what I wanted to hear, but what else can I do? When it fails to start I just push the start button until I get back to ignition start and try again. I know within a couple of seconds if it is going to start or not. I don't let it spin any longer than it takes to push the start button again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Without the Brake Pushed it should not Start at all.... Bad Switch, Bad Relay, Fuel Pump / Fuel Pressure....
It doesn't start without the brake pushed. I hit the start button and wait until I hear the fuel pump stop then I push the brake and hit the start button. It usually won't stall doing it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fuel pump? I have a question mark after that because it is hard to believe a fuel pump being the cause of this behavior would not have gone ahead and failed outright by now.

Thus I would suspect a fuel pressure problem. The fuel pump supplies the necessary fuel and at the right pressure and the engine starts but the fuel pressure (or supply) drops and the engine dies. Upon an attempted restart the fuel pressure/supply is ok and the engine fires up and runs normally.

Even this is rather hard to accept. Also, I would expect a CEL with a low fuel pressure error code logged.

Which leaves possibly an ignition switch as the problem.

It is important you note very carefully the conditions/steps you follow when the engine dying symptom appears. Is the engine cold, hot or ? Is the car parked level or on an incline? Is the gas tank full, half full or low? And so on.

Also, can you affect the behavior by carefully pushing the start button in straight then at other times with some sideways pressure? Of if you wiggle the button as you push it in?

If this is supported with your vehicle remove the button cover and use the key blade to see if this behavior still occurs.
It still occurs using the key blade.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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It still occurs using the key blade.
Then probably not related to the ignition switch.

That you get the fuel pump running then wait a bit before starting the engine and it starting most of the time strongly suggests a problem with fueling. The fuel pump may be just fine but the pressure regulator or a valve that prevents the fuel system contents from draining back into the tank may be acting up.

I would hope a tech would have a better idea on how to address this. My ideas right now are limited to possibly replacing the fuel pressure regulator (this may be part of the fuel pump assembly) and if there is an anti-drain back valve in the fuel system to replace this as well.
 

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I've tried to have this diagnosed at multiple dealers and they can never seem to "re-create" the issue.
2011 Challenger R/T Classic
Car starts , stalls, then keeps cranking over for a short period. After it stops cranking it will start and stay running.
Some times if I push the start button without foot on brake, wait until all chimes & dash lights go off, then start it stays running.
I've been living with this issue since the car was about 3 years old.
Hi varmintjcl,
If you're thinking you'd like to have this looked at by the dealer, let us know. We're available via direct message and can help with this process.

Rob
Dodge Cares
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for offering Rob but I took it to an independent shop and not surprising they were familiar with the issue and they were able to re-create the issue every time!
After a little diagnosis they determined the issue is coming from the TIPM module. Then come to find out Chrysler is very aware of this issue and has done a recall on Dodge Durango's with the problem, but not on other models.
The TIPM also is responsible for other issues like windows opening at random, doors unlocking, and most everything related to the electrical system.
I don't get why the dealers play dumb and have always giving me the same excuse that they can't re-create any of these issues when I've taken it in to be diagnosed!
A simple internet search brings up tons of information on the very problem the dealers told me they never had heard of or experienced!
 
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