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2015 sxt/rt 5.7 with scat pack kits 1 &2
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Yep, your right except I have long tube headers and high flow cats with 3" cat back, and it will have a fastman 82mm throttle body. So the only thing missing is the heads which if my info is correct , in 2016 they changed the flow of the stock heads with D port exhaust so the exchange only gains a little on the exhaust, which I have covered with the 1& 7/8 long tube headers and it gives up a little on the intake so it is almost a wash and not worth the money in my estimate. I hope I never got that backwards.

Anyway,if I upgrade valve springs, push rods ect. I am closer to a stage 3 then a stage 2, I think.
the stage 3 heads are the same as stock just cnc machined for better flow, good for about 20-25 extra ponies at the very least:cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #82
the stage 3 heads are the same as stock just cnc machined for better flow, good for about 20-25 extra ponies at the very least:cool:
Maybe I better take another look then. I would hate to leave that much HP on the table. Although 25 HP for $3550 is $130 per each but powers not cheap.

Maybe I could just get a 270 cam and push rods and add a stage three. That way I don't pay for an extra set of springs and I could sell the short tube headers that comes with the stage three.

I'll figure it out before spring with the help of the people on here like you. What all have you done? Did you put on the heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Good day today. I just ordered the 270 cam and CNC heads and 5/16" Pushrods along with the stage 3 tuner for my 2016 Challenger RT Plus Shaker.

The end of my so called planned upgrades is in sight. Still , I need to address the tire or traction issue next.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
I should probably explain what I did to save a little money on this stage 3 Mopar. I initially put Jba long tube headers and high flow cats with a Magnaflow comp exhaust with a stage 1 Mopar tune.

Then I skipped the stage 2 Mopar kit and bought a 270 Mopar cam, 5/16 push rods and tie bars and top end gaskets ( they don't give those away). Then I bought a set of CNC heads which set me up for a stage 3 Mopar tuner.

I saved money because I didn't buy a set of valve springs and a stage 2 tuner and I already had the headers and high flow cats so all I needed was the heads and a tuner for stage 3.

In have invested $6900 for all I have done in the stage dept. as opposed to $9600 for all three scat packs and tuners. That is pretty significant.

I doubt I will have the performance a Diablo and Hemi Fever tune would have given me or say a forced induction system but my power train and electronics warranty are still intact and I should have around 460 HP which will put a lot of smiles on my face I think.
 

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You're going All In Eh! :) Ry

Looking forward to your results, maybe establish some 0 ~ 60 run times as a before and after test results?

DYNO HP results are not necessary, simply because if you cannot get the HP to ground, your HP is irrelevant. Many high HP vehicles can have their pride bubble busted by a lesser HP being able to hook and get off the line.
 
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Discussion Starter #88
You're going All In Eh! :) Ry

Looking forward to your results, maybe establish some 0 ~ 60 run times as a before and after test results?

DYNO HP results are not necessary, simply because if you cannot get the HP to ground, your HP is irrelevant. Many high HP vehicles can have their pride bubble busted by a lesser HP being able to hook and get off the line.
Absolutely, I am having trouble getting the power to the ground now as I said in previous posts.

So I actually went out today and the best I got after four tries 0-60 was 5.4, 5.2, 5.2. 5.4 I know there is more there I just can't get it to hook.

It actually did the 5.2's with traction control on. I am launching at 1500 rpm.

I have to make the next upgrade tires. I don't see that I have a choice.
 

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Did you try rolling into it quickly instead of launching @ 1500 ??

My best time (4.4) was done that way, and I wasn't really trying..just finally checking out how some of the features really work.

On mine, even a 1500 rpm launch means a lot of wheel spin....mostly in 2nd gear.
 
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2014 Boosted 392 Stroker Shaker
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But you can't. The 5.7 will never make the power of a 6.4 unless it has some sort of F/I. Small bolt ons are not going to do it. Comparing the two is just silly as would comparing the 6.4 to the Hellcat.
The secret is stroking it, which is all bolt-ons. I'm convinced that the 5.7 is a much stronger engine than the 6.4. Of course I do have forced induction along with all of my other mods, and I still don't have a clue as to what I've built. I have another 800 miles of break-in to go through before I do the performance tune, because I want this build to last. FWIW, my goal is 800 rwhp, and then I can start looking for tires to make it stick...
 
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Discussion Starter #91
Did you try rolling into it quickly instead of launching @ 1500 ??

My best time (4.4) was done that way, and I wasn't really trying..just finally checking out how some of the features really work.

On mine, even a 1500 rpm launch means a lot of wheel spin....mostly in 2nd gear.
Yeh your right I do a lot better if I make a rolling start, but I don't think that is a really an honest 0-60. If I was at the track or facing off with a guy on the street I'm not sure they would go for a roll on.:unsure:Not that I would ever instigate a speed contest.:devilish: Besides the reason I drive an 8 speed auto is because I'm old and shiftless.

So to be honest with the guys that are on here I think I better keep my info square. I hate when someone calls my Bullshit. I'm not quick enough to cover myself anymore, and someone on here would surely catch me. You can bullshit the fans but you can't bullshit the players. LOL. I already owe Jazz Blue a round of whiskies.

Part of the challenge is the smarts to get the power and then to the ground. I'll get there. There are lots of sharp street guys on here.

But your right I could find out what I have built and what the possibilities for it are. 4.4 is pretty good I don't know if mine is gonna keep up with that. What I've done is pretty tame compared to a lot of the guys on here.
 

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Yeh your right I do a lot better if I make a rolling start, but I don't think that is a really an honest 0-60. If I was at the track or facing off with a guy on the street I'm not sure they would go for a roll on.:unsure:Not that I would ever instigate a speed contest.:devilish: Besides the reason I drive an 8 speed auto is because I'm old and shiftless.

So to be honest with the guys that are on here I think I better keep my info square. I hate when someone calls my Bullshit. I'm not quick enough to cover myself anymore, and someone on here would surely catch me. You can bullshit the fans but you can't bullshit the players. LOL

Part of the challenge is the smarts to get the power and then to the ground. I'll get there. There are lots of sharp street guys on here.

But your right I could find out what I have built and what the possibilities for it are. 4.4 is pretty good I don't know if mine is gonna keep up with that. What I've done is pretty tame compared to a lot of the guys on here.

Not rolling....Roll IN....meaning from a dead stop apply throttle as smoothly and quickly as you can without spinning, and the farther you push it, the faster......as opposed to just stabbing it WOT....

I have a 6.4, but when I ran that 4.4, I slowly pushed the throttle until I was moving, then once moving, continue to push it faster and faster

'rolling into it' and a 'rolling start' are not the same thing
 
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Discussion Starter #93
Not rolling....Roll IN....meaning from a dead stop apply throttle as smoothly and quickly as you can without spinning, and the farther you push it, the faster......as opposed to just stabbing it WOT....

I have a 6.4, but when I ran that 4.4, I slowly pushed the throttle until I was moving, then once moving, continue to push it faster and faster

'rolling into it' and a 'rolling start' are not the same thing
I see what you mean now.I have done that a few times without the 0-60 timer on. I'll give it a try and see how it works. It might just make a difference for me.
 

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What tire width are you running in the rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #95
What tire width are you running in the rear?
It still has the245/45 R20's on it. The dealership put new ones on the front when we were negotiating the front end problems and it had new ones on the back when I bought the car.

Searching the forum I saw you were running Perelli zero's, 275/40 R20's I think. Are you still happy with them and what kind of milage are you getting out of them?

I was looking at the Nitto NT555 G2 275/40 R20 on the rear and 245/45 R20 on the front. I have 9" rims so the 295's worry me a little. The Michelin SS look interesting as well.

Continentals have weak side walls, my Diesel truck came with them and I ran a stick thru one the first month.

What is your opinion on those choices?
 

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It still has the245/45 R20's on it. The dealership put new ones on the front when we were negotiating the front end problems and it had new ones on the back when I bought the car.

Searching the forum I saw you were running Perelli zero's, 275/40 R20's I think. Are you still happy with them and what kind of milage are you getting out of them?

I was looking at the Nitto NT555 G2 275/40 R20 on the rear and 245/45 R20 on the front. I have 9" rims so the 295's worry me a little. The Michelin SS look interesting as well.

Continentals have weak side walls, my Diesel truck came with them and I ran a stick thru one the first month.

What is your opinion on those choices?
The Pirelli P-Zero 275/40/20s hook extremely well for the power the car presently has but I did not buy those tires for mileage, I bought them to hook on the street and they have not disappointed at all. They will fit nicely on a 9" width rim and perform a heck of a lot better than the 245s, but if you have excessive negative rear camber any tire will spin until you correct that issue. Do you know exactly what your rear negative camber actually is, if not go get it aligned and find out before you even think about new tires, because you may need to correct that first.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
The Pirelli P-Zero 275/40/20s hook extremely well for the power the car presently has but I did not buy those tires for mileage, I bought them to hook on the street and they have not disappointed at all. They will fit nicely on a 9" width rim and perform a heck of a lot better than the 245s, but if you have excessive negative rear camber any tire will spin until you correct that issue. Do you know exactly what your rear negative camber actually is, if not go get it aligned and find out before you even think about new tires, because you may need to correct that first.
Les schwab tire aligned all that when I had the front control arms replaced and put the new tires on the front. They said every thing is good now and it feels good to drive so I think that is fine.

My problem is I live in a state with very adverse weather conditions off and on all year. So I need an all weather performance tire that works well in wet as well as dry conditions.

My buddy who bought the Hellcat Redeye says he loves the Pirelli's that came on it but that it loses traction pretty bad in wet weather. How are they in your opinion?

I'm no Redeye and I may have overstated my Horse power L think after recalculation I'll be around 440 to 450 at the crank so maybe 400 RWHP.

I am not concerned with winter as it gets put to bed. So far I have the pirelli's at #3 after the michelin pilot sport as3+ at #1 and the continental extreme contact at #2.

I would have to go with 285/35 zr20 on the rear with michelin and 245/45r 20 in front. The Continentals worry me because of the side walls as I have had problems with their truck tires side walls.

I think all of them will get 20000 to 30000 miles.
 

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There are no tires that a Hellcat Redeye can't get loose in wet weather, we are not running that much horsepower and they are just fine. I cannot comment on the other tires I have not used them, but I can say to stay away from the Mickey Thompson Street/Comp tires, they suck!
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Your right about the Redeye. I've been driving myself crazy with tire reviews and ratings all day. I appreciate your help. You aren't the only one who gives the Pirelli good reviews. And you are correct that I am trying to get things hooked up on the street not traveling cross country.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
So a quick update on my tires. I have never actually checked the tires on my car I just assumed it still had stock tires on it. I took a look today just to be sure and much to my amazement it does not have Goodyears on it. It has 245/45zr20 Michelin pilot AS 3+ all the way around. So it was a little warmer today so I reset all the parameters and did a 1500 RPM launch 0-60 in Sport mode and got a 5.5. I got a couple tenths better in colder temp and Trac Control on. Whatever even 5.2 and 5.4 is not good.

Better add this, my pedal commander is set on city+2 Maybe I'll boost it up a little and see if it makes the spin worse.
 
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