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@Johnnyreb

Those Michelin Pilot AS 3 Plus tires have a 500 treadwear, they should spin pretty bad, they are not designed for off the line traction, the Pirellis P-Zeros have a 220 treadwear and they hook off the line pretty good. Whichever tires you go with the treadwear # is important the higher the # the harder the rubber composition, the harder the rubber the longer the tires last of course, but they suck for off the line traction.

I saw a Hellcat Redeye the other day running 305 Pirelli P-Zeros at least Dodge is putting tires on now that can get some traction on the street, even though with 797HP she still spun them pretty bad, but for our 5.7s they do a great job!

The Pirellis is how I am getting a 4.4 second 0 ~ 60 time, plus everything else that's been done to it of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
@Johnnyreb

Those Michelin Pilot AS 3 Plus tires have a 500 treadwear, they should spin pretty bad, they are not designed for off the line traction, the Pirellis P-Zeros have a 220 treadwear and they hook off the line pretty good. Whichever tires you go with the treadwear # is important the higher the # the harder the rubber composition, the harder the rubber the longer the tires last of course, but they suck for off the line traction.

I saw a Hellcat Redeye the other day running 305 Pirelli P-Zeros at least Dodge is putting tires on now that can get some traction on the street, even though with 797HP she still spun them pretty bad, but for our 5.7s they do a great job!

The Pirellis is how I am getting a 4.4 second 0 ~ 60 time, plus everything else that's been done to it of course.
I definitely got to change tires, The dealer when he put new tires on the front put a set of cheap off brand tires on the front, which doesn't surprise me much. They have been an absolute criminal operation for a long while . They are the only act in town and own all the franchises for Ford, Dodge ect.

Anyway My friend that bought the Redeye says that the p-zero's are what his came with. The rubber is always a trade off and I drive my other cars more then the Challenger so after I get the heads and cam traded out( if they ever get here) :censored: I'll just spin these off and get a set put on.

While I am at it, I need a mopar certified Mechanic in Eastern Oregon, Western Idaho that is good. any recommendations would be appreciated greatly. The guy down here is recommended pretty highly if the Dealership will leave him alone and let him do it, but as stated I don't trust them for squat.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
So here is an update on the tires. I had the Nexen 5000 plus tires pulled off the front, I heard that they are ok for a family sedan which I am not. So I moved the Michelin as+3 245/45r20's to the front and my friend got me a set of Michelin as+3 275/40r20's for $300 each, and put them on the rear so I should get an improvement. The rear tires were still at 90% tread so I can put perrellis on with the next set. Saved a little money and still got pretty highly rated tires. I'll see if mine spins as bad as RyzRT with the hemi fever tune. I doubt it will with a Mopar stage 3 tuner. Still waiting on the heads Ect. I got the Tuner from Prefix already so just waiting----------Patiently-------------waiting.
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Mopar has informed me they can't provide the heads cam ect. until next year sometime. They have for the 3rd time refunded my money.

Monday I am going to either Arrington or Modern muscle and I will order their heads and a cam that has Identical numbers as the Mopar from Comp Cams as well as push rods and tie bars.

I will risque the extended warranty but they have to prove my mods caused the failure, if one happens. I will still be running the stage 3 mopar ecm and tune I already have as it can't be returned.

Mopar will still be doing the install. I have really gleaned a lot of confidence in the guy doing the work. we have talked quit a lot about what I am trying to accomplish. I will let you know when it is done. and post a new best 0-60 with a pic of the time.

I just want a 5.7 Hemi that has every opportunity to put down the power it should have had from the factory. It's true potential will be enough for me. I'm not a track guy, I'm a street guy.

The Mopar mechanic and Dale Mathews at Prefix both said that my Ecm is open and a dyno tune can be had if I want. Also I talked to National warranty and they said that I have modified the car already so I can get a refund if I want. But the warranty covers electronics as well as power train.

Let's do this shall we?
 

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I will risque the extended warranty but they have to prove my mods caused the failure, if one happens.
Actually no they won't have to prove a thing. If you have a problem they will refuse to work on your car and it will be up to YOU to try and prove otherwise. And you will lose in the end.
 

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Actually no they won't have to prove a thing. If you have a problem they will refuse to work on your car and it will be up to YOU to try and prove otherwise. And you will lose in the end.

Agree, the dealer has to prove it under the original warranty, but the aftermarket versions don't have to prove anything from what I've seen.

Read the fine print....a lot of those 'warranties' call themselves 'a warranty', but instead are actually just a service or maintenance plan....so they don't fall under the magnuson-moss rules.

I know the Chrysler Maxcare plans are service plans...not warranties. Says so right on the first page of the contract in bold letters.
 
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Discussion Starter #107
Actually no they won't have to prove a thing. If you have a problem they will refuse to work on your car and it will be up to YOU to try and prove otherwise. And you will lose in the end.
Your probably right. What the hell, The rep at national already said that the headers were a modification and provided a disclaimer so I'll just get the rest of my 1000 bucks back and take the chance.

At this point I really don't care. Harley did the same thing to me and so I no longer buy extended warranties from them.

The part that is so rigged is that the service manager and I called National before I put the Headers ect. on and they said then " Oh hey no problem" now I get a different story. They won't do it a second time.

I've been played before but they were usually Blonde and tall.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Agree, the dealer has to prove it under the original warranty, but the aftermarket versions don't have to prove anything from what I've seen.

Read the fine print....a lot of those 'warranties' call themselves 'a warranty', but instead are actually just a service or maintenance plan....so they don't fall under the magnuson-moss rules.

I know the Chrysler Maxcare plans are service plans...not warranties. Says so right on the first page of the contract in bold letters.
No, this is a warranty but it doesn't matter. As soon as I MODIFIED my car that was the end of that. I don't know how They could claim headers caused an electrical failure but I'm sure they will.

I am tired of trying to protect a phony warranty so bag it. I want my car my way, and not a lot of people on here that are doing this are having major problems.

This is actually pretty mild mods not like nitrous or a super charger. I say lets get it done.
 

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Your probably right. What the hell, The rep at national already said that the headers were a modification and provided a disclaimer so I'll just get the rest of my 1000 bucks back and take the chance.

At this point I really don't care. Harley did the same thing to me and so I no longer buy extended warranties from them.

The part that is so rigged is that the service manager and I called National before I put the Headers ect. on and they said then " Oh hey no problem" now I get a different story. They won't do it a second time.

I've been played before but they were usually Blonde and tall.

All about the money......
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Update on my 2016 RT plus Shaker. I got an Identical as Mopar, numbers 270 cam from Comp cams w/Phase Limiter, MMX Eagle CNC heads, .083 hardened Custom Push Rods. Skank Rocker Arm Stiffeners and a Stage 3 prefix tune w/ MDS delete and the car goes in on the 14th to get it installed.

I am overhauling the engine in my jeep and replacing the pitman arm on my Hay Baler to finish my hay right now or I could do this myself but I think the Mechanic I have picked out will do a good job.

Almost a done deal. I'll send you numbers after I'm done, but Dale at prefix says 60 Hp over stock the other guy says 80 HP we'll see. If its 60 that would be 435 at the crank. My average 0 to 60 right now is just 5.4.
 

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So here is an update on the tires. I had the Nexen 5000 plus tires pulled off the front, I heard that they are ok for a family sedan which I am not. So I moved the Michelin as+3 245/45r20's to the front and my friend got me a set of Michelin as+3 275/40r20's for $300 each, and put them on the rear so I should get an improvement. The rear tires were still at 90% tread so I can put perrellis on with the next set. Saved a little money and still got pretty highly rated tires. I'll see if mine spins as bad as RyzRT with the hemi fever tune. I doubt it will with a Mopar stage 3 tuner. Still waiting on the heads Ect. I got the Tuner from Prefix already so just waiting----------Patiently-------------waiting.
Have you run another 0 ~ 60 to test those rear Michelins?
 

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Back to header talk.
I have the belanger headers, some may recognize from the viper world, I went with since I like to support local az vendors when able, be honest long tube highflow cat back full system, no tune, I pass emissions each year, no delete now cell spacers an amazing sound.. I know I will make gains when tuned.. I went this route after doing a side job for a friend installing some texas speed gear an was sad to see not made in USA.
 

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Mopar has informed me they can't provide the heads cam ect. until next year sometime. They have for the 3rd time refunded my money.

Monday I am going to either Arrington or Modern muscle and I will order their heads and a cam that has Identical numbers as the Mopar from Comp Cams as well as push rods and tie bars.

I will risque the extended warranty but they have to prove my mods caused the failure, if one happens. I will still be running the stage 3 mopar ecm and tune I already have as it can't be returned.

Mopar will still be doing the install. I have really gleaned a lot of confidence in the guy doing the work. we have talked quit a lot about what I am trying to accomplish. I will let you know when it is done. and post a new best 0-60 with a pic of the time.

I just want a 5.7 Hemi that has every opportunity to put down the power it should have had from the factory. It's true potential will be enough for me. I'm not a track guy, I'm a street guy.
Regarding the Underlined: You do not need a cam and heads for that, because that change would not have come from the factory on the 5.7L HEMI. Johnnyreb.

You say Mopar is doing the installation?

When I set in motion getting a Scat Pack Stage 1, PCM, I waited 2 solid months, and then after many inquiries Chrysler corporate refunded my CC the money, and gave me some lame excuse as to why. Which has turned out to be the best thing that could have happened, because I said the Hell with it! Got an unlocked PCM through Hemifever tuning and have not looked back, my thoughts, if I was lied to regarding all that Mopar mumbo jumbo crap, why wouldn't they also lie about the warranty as well.

I was informed that a warranty was only covered using not only 100% Mopar parts, BUT, Specifically, had to be ordered by a dealership service department and installed by them, which does not cover aftermarket what so ever?

They even told me if the Service Department did not order it, I had no warranty, even if it was genuine Mopar, that I had independently ordered and acquired.

Why do you think I changed my differential myself, my 100% Mopar 3.09 LSD differential, because of their warranty BS, and saving labor as well.

My thoughts are, if you are going the cam and header route why are you trying to match the limited Mopar Scat Stages, go for maybe not a full racing cam for the 5.7L but better than the Mopar, which is still a dialed back setup?

Do you really want to spend this much money and end up dissatisfied, it could happen, Please think about it?

My 2 cents. Ry
 
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I'm wondering if any of you discovered the fine print regarding the Scat Pack Stages 1, 2, and 3, for the 5.7L, that only stage 1, was covered as street legal, that 2 & 3 were classed as strictly off road. More than likely that was an excuse as far as Chrysler corporate was concerned to possibly shelve a warranty if you were using the car on the street?

IMO, that is some S*****, way of dealing with the owner of the vehicle, of course they try to appease the public after more power, but still have to walk the emissions chalk line. Point being it should not be fine print if there are limitations, it should be openly the first sentence as a warning, but then they would loose those possible customers.

Don't get me wrong, I am a Mopar fan, or it would not be on my car, but there is corporate BS in the Mopar kingdom!

256046
 
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Discussion Starter #116
Regarding the Underlined: You do not need a cam and heads for that, because that change would not have come from the factory on the 5.7L HEMI. Johnnyreb.

You say Mopar is doing the installation?

When I set in motion getting a Scat Pack Stage 1, PCM, I waited 2 solid months, and then after many inquiries Chrysler corporate refunded my CC the money, and gave me some lame excuse as to why. Which has turned out to be the best thing that could have happened, because I said the Hell with it! Got an unlocked PCM through Hemifever tuning and have not looked back, my thoughts, if I was lied to regarding all that Mopar mumbo jumbo crap, why wouldn't they also lie about the warranty as well.

I was informed that a warranty was only covered using not only 100% Mopar parts, BUT, Specifically, had to be ordered by a dealership service department and installed by them, which does not cover aftermarket what so ever?

They even told me if the Service Department did not order it, I had no warranty, even if it was genuine Mopar, that I had independently ordered and acquired.

Why do you think I changed my differential myself, my 100% Mopar 3.09 LSD differential, because of their warranty BS, and saving labor as well.

My thoughts are, if you are going the cam and header route why are you trying to match the limited Mopar Scat Stages, go for maybe not a full racing cam for the 5.7L but better than the Mopar, which is still a dialed back setup?

Do you really want to spend this much money and end up dissatisfied, it could happen, Please think about it?

My 2 cents. Ry
When I started this I was told by the National Insurance that they would cover any work that was done with Mopar parts by a Mopar shop. That turned out to be BS.

I have tried to find mopar parts to bypass the stage 2 and go to stage 3 because I put after market JBA headers and high flow cats w/ magnaflow 3" competition exhaust and sent the Throttle body to fastman. Remember, you, I and jazz Blue had a discussion about if I would throw a emissions code. I have off and on since. All of that put me half way to stage 3.

I then started to buy Mopar Heads and Cam w/ push rods, tie bars, ect. I didn't need the springs from stage 2 because I bought heads, I didn't need the shorty headers and cats from stage 3. So i saved the money for that and didn't need a stage 2 tuner because I bypassed it. I saved about $ 2500 over the stage route.

I ordered all of this 3 times from various Mopar parts warehouses them saying oh yeah we can get them. 3 times they had to refund my money because they couldn't.

At this point I had already bought a stage three tuner from Prefix and I could not return it. There is the option of getting a dyno tune as it is an open pcm if they have the code. It's not that hard to get actually.

Anyway I went with the CNC heads from MXM and matched the street cam from comp cams that matches the Mopar and upgraded the rocker stiffeners and push rods because I am trying to make it perform better and still maintain driveability around town and just cruising down the road. The cam is a pretty good cam, Comps highest performing stage 3 and I can still use hydralic lifters and a throttle body. The next cam up is suggested for a forced induction which I don't want.

So if I don't like it I can still go to a more radical tune and most of what I put on is actually upgraded from the scat pac kits and I still saved a lot of money over Mopar.

The Mopar Mechanic is by choice. I like the guy and several friends have recommended him. National is refunding my money for the rest of my extended warranty and I could do this myself as I said but I am in the middle of doing a complete overhaul on my Jeep Wrangler, I am in the middle of haying season and my baler I just got fixed today now the bale wagon needs some work before next cut and my gun shop is backing up. Something has to be relegated to someone else as I am out of time and energy. So that is what I chose.

I think I will be happy. I don't go to the track anymore on either my bikes or cars. and I believe I have made excellent choices for what I am trying to accomplish. I think you will be surprised at what it will do when I get finished.
 

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Discussion Starter #117
Have you run another 0 ~ 60 to test those rear Michelins?
Just one and I got a 5.4 It was really hot that day and I want to run another before it goes to the shop, but I want to do it when it is cooler. My car performs much better when it is sucking cold air. Might have to do it at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #118
I'm wondering if any of you discovered the fine print regarding the Scat Pack Stages 1, 2, and 3, for the 5.7L, that only stage 1, was covered as street legal, that 2 & 3 were classed as strictly off road. More than likely that was an excuse as far as Chrysler corporate was concerned to possibly shelve a warranty if you were using the car on the street?

IMO, that is some S*****, way of dealing with the owner of the vehicle, of course they try to appease the public after more power, but still have to walk the emissions chalk line. Point being it should not be fine print if there are limitations, it should be openly the first sentence as a warning, but then they would loose those possible customers.

Don't get me wrong, I am a Mopar fan, or it would not be on my car, but there is corporate BS in the Mopar kingdom!

View attachment 256046
Everything you have said in the previous and this post is exactly what I found to be true dealing with Mopar. I also said to hell with it and just bypassed them.
 

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When I started this I was told by the National Insurance that they would cover any work that was done with Mopar parts by a Mopar shop. That turned out to be BS.

I have tried to find mopar parts to bypass the stage 2 and go to stage 3 because I put after market JBA headers and high flow cats w/ magnaflow 3" competition exhaust and sent the Throttle body to fastman. Remember, you, I and jazz Blue had a discussion about if I would throw a emissions code. I have off and on since. All of that put me half way to stage 3.

I then started to buy Mopar Heads and Cam w/ push rods, tie bars, ect. I didn't need the springs from stage 2 because I bought heads, I didn't need the shorty headers and cats from stage 3. So i saved the money for that and didn't need a stage 2 tuner because I bypassed it. I saved about $ 2500 over the stage route.

I ordered all of this 3 times from various Mopar parts warehouses them saying oh yeah we can get them. 3 times they had to refund my money because they couldn't.

At this point I had already bought a stage three tuner from Prefix and I could not return it. There is the option of getting a dyno tune as it is an open pcm if they have the code. It's not that hard to get actually.

Anyway I went with the CNC heads from MXM and matched the street cam from comp cams that matches the Mopar and upgraded the rocker stiffeners and push rods because I am trying to make it perform better and still maintain driveability around town and just cruising down the road. The cam is a pretty good cam, Comps highest performing stage 3 and I can still use hydralic lifters and a throttle body. The next cam up is suggested for a forced induction which I don't want.

So if I don't like it I can still go to a more radical tune and most of what I put on is actually upgraded from the scat pac kits and I still saved a lot of money over Mopar.

The Mopar Mechanic is by choice. I like the guy and several friends have recommended him. National is refunding my money for the rest of my extended warranty and I could do this myself as I said but I am in the middle of doing a complete overhaul on my Jeep Wrangler, I am in the middle of haying season and my baler I just got fixed today now the bale wagon needs some work before next cut and my gun shop is backing up. Something has to be relegated to someone else as I am out of time and energy. So that is what I chose.

I think I will be happy. I don't go to the track anymore on either my bikes or cars. and I believe I have made excellent choices for what I am trying to accomplish. I think you will be surprised at what it will do when I get finished.
Sounds like a lot on your plate trying to juggle everything you have to get done, so you are a gun smith as well?
 

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Just one and I got a 5.4 It was really hot that day and I want to run another before it goes to the shop, but I want to do it when it is cooler. My car performs much better when it is sucking cold air. Might have to do it at night.
Regarding 0 ~ 60 time runs:
If I remember you have the 8 speed automatic transmission right?
Do you have a limited slip differential?
The 5.4 run had to have a lot of tire spin with everything you have done to your 5.7 your time should be under 5.0 seconds, the 2019 R/T 5.7L A8 can get a 4.9 I did that on one the wife and I rented to take a trip?

Now it did take a few runs with the 2019 and the best time was 4.9 so it did not do 4.9 consistently, the other runs were all above 5 seconds like 5.4, 5.6, etc., a lot of off the line tire spin all depending on the 245 tires and road surface.
 
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