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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2010 R/T with the P1SC1 Procharger with intercooler. I live in Texas and for 99 percent of the time I run with normal coolant temperatures. I have 180 Tstat and have adjusted the fan on temperatures. If I sit in traffic when the thermometer is over 100 degrees for a long time the temperature will creep up.

Anyone have an experience with an upgraded Radiator and fan setup that you would recommend?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Doesn’t sound too hot. 180 degree temps. are pretty standard with mine and I have a 160 deg. t’stat with stock fan and rad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That is not what I meant.. I have a 180 TSTAT and 99 percent of time it's all good. I see the HIGHER temps when idling and sitting for a long time in 100 degree weather (no air flow other than the stock fans)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have tried that... no change. And I will reiterate, it takes a long period of idling... and as I understand it the SRT has a more robust cooling system than the R/T 5.7
 

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That is not what I meant.. I have a 180 TSTAT and 99 percent of time it's all good. I see the HIGHER temps when idling and sitting for a long time in 100 degree weather (no air flow other than the stock fans)
Curious what temps you see when it goes higher.
 

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Perhaps going with higher flow fans would be all you would need. Some 6.4's run 2 speed fans but there was/is a medium cooling condition where one fan is running low speed, and the second fan is running high speed. In essence providing 3 levels of airflow through the radiator. You could possibly upgrade your stock fans to higher CFM units.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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I have a 2010 R/T with the P1SC1 Procharger with intercooler. I live in Texas and for 99 percent of the time I run with normal coolant temperatures. I have 180 Tstat and have adjusted the fan on temperatures. If I sit in traffic when the thermometer is over 100 degrees for a long time the temperature will creep up.

Anyone have an experience with an upgraded Radiator and fan setup that you would recommend?

Thanks in advance.
Hard to believe the supercharger at idle would contribute that much extra heat load to the engine's nominal heat load at idle.

What temperature does the coolant creep up to? Some increase in temperature while sitting still is to be expected even with an engine in its factory configuration.

If the A/C is off the only time the radiator fan runs is when the coolant temperature climbs to some temperature threshold. Not sure what this is for a 2010 R/T but for my 2020 Scat Pack it appears to be 216F.

But the fan kicks on and the coolant temperature falls as the fan runs. Then the fan shuts off and the whole cycle begins anew.

With one car I did experience in very high ambient temperature -- 116F -- a surprising increase in coolant temperature. With this car the fan switched on at low speed at 212F then switched to high speed at 216F. Might add the car had 2 separate radiators and two separate fans.

(While I never tested this the word was from people who ran this car in competition that one intact radiator with a working fan was sufficient to keep the car cool. There was that much extra cooling margin with two radiators.)

But in 116F ambient temperature even moving down the freeway the coolant temperature "creeped" up to 226F even though both fans were running at high speed. There was never any signs of overheating. And the coolant temperature never climbed above 226F. After I drove out of the area and got into slightly cooler ambient temperature the coolant temperature dropped and the engine was no worse off from the experience.

If the coolant temperature continues to creep up and doesn't appear to reach some point and then stop creeping up but appears to want to go higher and higher even with the fan on while sitting still in high ambient temperature suggests the fan is not moving enough air through the radiator. Or air flow through the radiator compromised.

Is all the fan shrouding intact? Is air flow through the radiator compromised? If the fan is driven by viscous clutch or electric motor is the fan turning at the right speed?

Assuming the shrouding is intact the air flow through the radiator is not compromised and the fan speed is correct -- and I'd add that the fan comes on when it is supposed to -- more fan or more radiator is the answer.
 

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I have the same set up. It did this to me too until I got the coolant level correct. Try adding some every morning until it appears normal. Check for leaks, too. But if it's not leaking, it's just low. I have had to replace the cap once, too.
 

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I have the same set up. It did this to me too until I got the coolant level correct. Try adding some every morning until it appears normal. Check for leaks, too. But if it's not leaking, it's just low. I have had to replace the cap once, too.
You bring up good points. I assumed (sigh) someone with a supercharger installed would ensure the cooling system healthy: full of the proper fluid; fluid and pressure tight; but of course if these conditions are not present that can cause coolant temperature to climb excessively high.

The cooling system can develop a problem at several locations. So far my experience with my Dodges has been absent any issues with the engine cooling system, but with other cars over the years I have encountered: A leaking pressure cap, a leaking water pump, a leaking radiator (one car all 3 developed leaks...), and in one the plastic coolant tank developed a split along the bottom mold seam. I have had several radiator fan issues come up as well. One the ballast resistor failed and the fan would not run at low speed, only high speed. With another car one of the two radiator fan motor shafts snapped in two. Yet another time while the radiator fan was running air flow was not nearly as much as the other side. The fan motor was drawing a high amount of power and it was replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Appreciate all the responses but you seem to be assuming I have a constant overheating condition. I do not... it's rare and only after sitting without moving for a long whole (only air flow being the fans)... it returns to normal once I start moving again. Normal driving around even in normal stop and go traffic at 100 degrees outside it stays normal in terms of the temperature gauge.

I assumed the RARE event could be remedied by at the very least upgraded fans, perhaps aftermarket radiator as well.
I asked for folks with experience in replacing their stock cooling system on a 5.7.

I have added water wetter, my water pump died (spectacularily) about two years ago and was replaced... the shroud is intact... and the bleeding air out is not the issue...I have had air in the system before and it's not rare to overheat when that is the case.
 

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Mine used to start overheating waiting in the drive through. It too seemed normal under regular driving conditions. I probably had to put two gallons in it, slowly over a couple days though. I don't think the new overflow tank that comes with the ProCharger does it any favors. Anyway. Better to try no cost/low cost solution first. Perhaps no one has done an upgrade because they work just fine properly maintained.
 

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Appreciate all the responses but you seem to be assuming I have a constant overheating condition. I do not... it's rare and only after sitting without moving for a long whole (only air flow being the fans)... it returns to normal once I start moving again. Normal driving around even in normal stop and go traffic at 100 degrees outside it stays normal in terms of the temperature gauge.

I assumed the RARE event could be remedied by at the very least upgraded fans, perhaps aftermarket radiator as well.
I asked for folks with experience in replacing their stock cooling system on a 5.7.

I have added water wetter, my water pump died (spectacularily) about two years ago and was replaced... the shroud is intact... and the bleeding air out is not the issue...I have had air in the system before and it's not rare to overheat when that is the case.
Do not recall you posting what the coolant temperature gets up to in these rare cases where the car sits with the engine running for long periods. Unless I missed this and I may have I'm wondering if the problem is more imagined than real.

As I think I mentioned with one car of mine under extreme high ambient temperature conditions the coolant temperature climbed to 226F. Up until this time it was rare to see it go much above 216F which is the temperature at which the radiator fans switched from low speed to high speed.

Frankly I was a bit worried about this. It didn't help the analog temperature gauge needle was in an area of the gauge face it had never every been in before. The position of the needle suggested the engine was running hot enough to make the reactor at Three Mile Island look like a refrigerator...

But while the coolant temperature got to 226F it didn't go any higher. And I didn't mention it before but I noted all the telemetry -- ambient temperature (116F); intake air temperature (135F); coolant temperature (226F) and spoke to the service manager at my dealer. He passed the info on to the factory. The factory's response was essentially absent any warning light indicating low coolant level or elevated coolant temperature -- there was none of these -- there was no overheating problem and the engine was fine. And so it proved to be. I drove over 100 miles to get out of the high ambient temperature then hundreds of miles on further to home. The engine was fine. Then I drove it several hundred thousand miles more and even at 317K miles the engine was fine.

If in your case the coolant temperature gives signs of it "running away" that is continuing to go up and up and the cooling system is otherwise intact and in good condition I'd offer more fan is necessary. If there is a larger radiator available and provided the shrouding fits it that might be a worthwhile modification too.

Before you make any mods though, you can try this: When you are in the stationary engine idling situation again and the coolant temperature gets to be a concern with the transmission in neutral bring RPMs up some. Not much just a bit over 1K. See if that drops the coolant temperature. If so this suggests that at idle the water pump is not flowing enough coolant to keep the engine cool.
 

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I just installed a procharger. Started experiencing same issues as Idaho has had a daily 100 degree heat wave this summer. I had hemi fever dial in my fan speeds and activation temps, which helped. I bought a 180 thermostat.....just need to install then we will see.

maybe the intercooler is blocking airflow to the raidater when sitting?.. just a thought
 

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Is there room for a pusher fan to fit in front of the intercooler?
 
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