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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
I am starting to get this message more and more.
"FOB Not detected"
my car is only a 2009.
i usually hit the Unlock Button on the Key, and then try the Push Button ignition again, then it usually work.
sometimes i notice i have to hit the lock or unlock button a few times to get them to work to.
sounds like there have replaceable batteries (CR2032, page 26 in manual), but my key has no screw visible on it.
do they just snap apart?
does the key have to be reprogrammed if you replace the battery??
anyone else have similar problem like this?

thanks in advance.
jason
 

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Key FOB? Battery replacement? Dead FOBIK?

Read the following info:

Questions?
There's a battery in this thing? Last couple of days I had to hit the un-lock button a couple of times to get it un-locked. Any warning
of a low battery?

Are you stuck out in the cold with a dead battery? Will the car start? I'm looking at the FOB and I don't see how you get inside it to
change batteries.

Response 1:
There is a battery in the FOB. No worries, if the FOB dies you can always use your hard (valet) key to get in the car but you are screwed
in trying to start it. There is a LOW battery indicator warning which should come on in your dash display when FOB begins to get low.
Just because your FOBIK will not work does not mean it has a dead battery, read on.

Response 2:
If the battery dies in the FOBIK, it will still start the car. The FOBIK doesn't need a battery installed to start it in the ignition. The
transponder in the FOBIK is energized by a large coil in the WIN (Wireless Ignition Node). If the battery dies, only the RKE or keyless
go functions will stop working. To remove Start button, use small screwdriver and press the key button out from the housing at
(bottom) 6 o'clock position. Insert the small end into the WIN slot and use it just like a key.

To open the FOBIK, just remove the valet key and use a screwdriver and put it between the top and bottom housing where the
valet key was and twist, it will pop right open.

Response 3
From the Challenger service manual ..."The FOBIK transponder cannot be adjusted or repaired. If ineffective or damaged, the entire
FOBIK and RKE transmitter unit must be replaced." It should be covered under your 3/36 warranty! The dealer should have a remote
signal strength tester to fully test the entire system. Once a FOBIK is "married" to a vehicle electronically, there is no means to use it
on any other vehicle or erase/reuse it. Only the dealer can do this programming.

Response 4
The Keyless Go system actually utilizes two controller modules and three separate antenna. One is the WIN module and one is the
PEM (Personal Entry Module). The Keyless Go system works under the KEELOQ encryption system ( see Tip:117 ).

This system uses a "rolling code" encryption and the FOBIK may on a rare occasion become "un-synced" from the PEM module.
When this happens the FOBIK will appear "dead" or have a dead battery, when in fact it is just "out of sync" with the PEM module.
To find out if this is the case, you will have to pop off the START BUTTON and insert the FOBIK like a key and when doing so it
will use the WIN module to sync the system's rolling code "counter".

Once you have used the FOBIK as a key to start the vehicle, you can then remove it after driving or whatever and see if you
can now resume functions with the FOBIK. If it works as normal, then this is what happened it lost sync with the
"rolling code encryption counter". If this continues on a frequent basis, have the FOBIK checked by your dealer.

Also use the other spare or second FOBIK (you should have two when purchasing the vehicle) about ever six months to keep it in sync as well.



NOTE:
Battery access is through a door located on the rear of the FOB. Insert small, flat blade screwdriver into the slot and gently pry open the access door.
The recommended replacement battery is one CR2032.

Here is a clip right from the Challengers Owner's Manual!



Warning! Warning!

Changing the battery in a Keyless Go (FOBIK) can be a bit dangerous to the FOBIK if it isn't done very carefully.

There are 2 very small capacitors, right on the edge of the PCB. If not re-assembled properly after changing the battery, you have
a 50-50 chance of breaking either one or both of these capacitors or the solder joints that hold them to the PCB. Because of this
very problem, the PCB (printed circuit bd.) had to be re-designed to move these components away from the edge.

If you break/damage one, The FOBIK will still work with all functions except the Keyless Go.

SEE ALSO: Tip:107 FOBIK (Key Fob) Repair and erratic operations
SEE ALSO: Tip:126 FOBIK "TRAPPED" IN WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)

 

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Major League - Wow, what an informative and detailed explanation about the FOB! I don't have that problem but I still read your response. Chrysler might have a job waiting for you!
 

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I just had this happen to me again yesterday. Every time it has happened to me I noticed that the door locks were locked before I tried to start it. I have a feeling when I get into the car with the fobik in my pocket it's setting the door lock. When I unlock the car it starts.
 

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FOB Fix

My 2009 was having a FOB finding issue as well. I took it to the dealer and they re-flashed the entry module. I have never had a problem since. The only issue - IMPORTANT - set your PCM back to stock prior to going into the dealer. When the entry module is updated, you will need to download the latest revision for the Predator Tuner from Diablo Sport.

Re-tune to CAI 93 octane or whatever you are running, and you will be fixed with no more FOB issues.
:smileup:
 

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Premium Member
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19,308 Posts
I am starting to get this message more and more.
"FOB Not detected"
my car is only a 2009.
i usually hit the Unlock Button on the Key, and then try the Push Button ignition again, then it usually work.
sometimes i notice i have to hit the lock or unlock button a few times to get them to work to.
sounds like there have replaceable batteries (CR2032, page 26 in manual), but my key has no screw visible on it.
do they just snap apart?
does the key have to be reprogrammed if you replace the battery??
anyone else have similar problem like this?

thanks in advance.
jason

Take your car back to the dealer and show them this RRT number.RRT 10-022 and don't worry about the 2010 part.

April 19, 2010
TO: ALL DODGE, CHRYSLER AND JEEP DEALERS
FROM: TECHNICAL SERVICE OPERATIONS
SUBJECT: RAPID RESPONSE TRANSMITTAL #10-022
Flash: WIN Module (Intermittent FOBIK Functions)
INVOLVED VEHICLES:
2010 (DJ/DS) RAM Truck
2010 (JC) Journey
2010 (LC) Challenger
2010 (LE/LX) Charger/300
2010 (WH/WK) Grand Cherokee
2010 (XH/XK) Commander
NOTE: This Service Action affects unsold vehicles.
NOTE: The VIN List is available on DealerCONNECT for all affected dealers. The VIN List has
been inserted in the Service Tab under Rapid Response Transmittals. The dealers receiving
the Rapid Response Transmittal Service Action are the “Ship To” dealers and the VIN’s listed
are specific to their dealership. All involved vehicles will be loaded into the VIP system.
NOTE: This should be a top priority and be completed prior to sale to avoid suspect vehicles
being delivered to customers.
DISCUSSION:
A number of vehicles, equipped with FOBIK may have intermittent operating characteristics. Dealers
are required to verify the manufacture of the Wireless Ignition Node Module (WIN) and if necessary,
Flash the (WIN) with updated software.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE:
1. Using the wiTECH Diagnostic Application verify the WIN module is manufactured by
Marquardt.
A. Click on the reports tab on the top of the main page.
B. Select Run/View Reports.
C. Select ECU Details report.
D. Click on the arrow key to run the report.
E. Scroll to the bottom to find the WIN section.
F. Look at the supplier ID is the Supplier Marquardt?
a. NO – Repair is complete return vehicle to inventory.
b. YES – Continue with the repair procedure.
2. If supplier is Marquardt, check the software version listed on the same page. Is the WIN
software version lower than 10.02.01?
A. NO - Inspection is complete return vehicle to inventory.
B. YES - Continue with the Flash repair procedure.
Form DMAIL-001 REV 1.01
FLASH REPAIR PROCEDURE:
NOTE: If this flash process is interrupted/aborted, the flash should be restarted.
3. Using the wiTECH Diagnostic Application, flash the WIN. For instructions select the “HELP”
tab on upper portion of the wiTECH window, then “HELP CONTENTS.” This will open the
Welcome to wiTECH Help screen were help topics can now selected.
4. After reprogramming clear any DTC's that may have been set in other modules due to the
reprogramming. The wiTech application will automatically present all DTC's after the flash and
allow the tech to clear them.
5. The software level will be updated to 10.02.01 in the WIN module.
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
NOTE: USE OF THE LABOR OPERATION INCLUDED WITH THIS SERVICE ACTION ON
VEHICLES OTHER THAN THOSE INVOLVED MAY BE SUBJECT TO CHARGE BACK.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
LABOR OPERATION NO:
18-80-32-95 Inspect for Supplier of WIN 0.2 Hrs.
18-80-32-96 Inspect and Flash WIN Module (C) 0.2 Hrs.
International Related Operation
18-00-00-WT StarMOBILE (International) (C) 0.2 Hrs.
FAILURE CODE: FM – Flash Module
If you have any questions, contact your Business Center.
 

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Challenger Old Guy...
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6,527 Posts
FOB and related...........

Major League - Wow, what an informative and detailed explanation about the FOB! I don't have that problem but I still read your response. Chrysler might have a job waiting for you!
Maxedwell,

If you have some time to waste, look at the Top Challenger Tips'n Tricks page to see if there
is an answer to a question you have not asked yet.

As Major League Inf said, its no big Whoop....

:3-smoke:
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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15,777 Posts
Maxedwell,

If you have some time to waste, look at the Top Challenger Tips'n Tricks page to see if there
is an answer to a question you have not asked yet.

As Major League Inf said, its no big Whoop....

:3-smoke:
Copying or posting information from another thread to help others is a very helpful gesture performed by many on this forum and as Major League pointed out its not very difficult to do.It requires some time and a willingness to help others.
Taking the time and having the knowledge to organize and explain over 135 tips and tricks (as you did) or Snake's list of all Recalls,TSB's etc. (two of many examples) is a pretty big whoop to me.
Just saying.
 

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More Than Just A Car
Joined
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20,239 Posts
Response 2:
If the battery dies in the FOBIK, it will still start the car. The FOBIK doesn't need a battery installed to start it in the ignition. The
transponder in the FOBIK is energized by a large coil in the WIN (Wireless Ignition Node). If the battery dies, only the RKE or keyless
go functions will stop working. To remove Start button, use small screwdriver and press the key button out from the housing at
(bottom) 6 o'clock position. Insert the small end into the WIN slot and use it just like a key.



You can use the valet key to pop out the button, you don't need to carry around a small screw driver....infact any key will pop it off easily.
 
S

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I walked out to my car this morning to go to work (yikes) and my 2011 STR8 Challenger 6 speed manual would have nothing to do with the fob. I took another car to work. I talked to local dealer service while still at work – they told me to take the metal key out of the fob, unlock the door, gently pry off the start/stop button and then use the metal key to start the car as a short term fix. They wanted to set a service appointment and I told them that I would get back to them.
So I just got home. I took the metal key out of the fob (which now has a brand new battery) and opened the door. I got in, gently pried off the button and it was obvious that the metal key was not going to start the car, at least in the ignition area. I looked at the forum and found that the end of the fob starts the car in this case. So I put the fob in the ignition area and it did act like a key.
Unfortunately the fob did not start the car and is now stuck in the ignition. The fob will turn but won’t come out. So at this point, the only course of action that I can see is to have the car towed to the dealer and let them play with it. My only other idea was to disconnect the car battery and then reconnect it to reset the car – but the battery is in the trunk, which won’t open. I don’t really feel like crawling through the back seat into the trunk on a maybe fix so I am at square 1 (towing) again.
I know that someone has a great idea that will save me from having to mess with the highly efficient dealer.

Thanks much!
 

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MOPAR Top Eliminator, Carlisle 2016
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26,583 Posts
I walked out to my car this morning to go to work (yikes) and my 2011 STR8 Challenger 6 speed manual would have nothing to do with the fob. I took another car to work. I talked to local dealer service while still at work – they told me to take the metal key out of the fob, unlock the door, gently pry off the start/stop button and then use the metal key to start the car as a short term fix. They wanted to set a service appointment and I told them that I would get back to them.
So I just got home. I took the metal key out of the fob (which now has a brand new battery) and opened the door. I got in, gently pried off the button and it was obvious that the metal key was not going to start the car, at least in the ignition area. I looked at the forum and found that the end of the fob starts the car in this case. So I put the fob in the ignition area and it did act like a key.
Unfortunately the fob did not start the car and is now stuck in the ignition. The fob will turn but won’t come out. So at this point, the only course of action that I can see is to have the car towed to the dealer and let them play with it. My only other idea was to disconnect the car battery and then reconnect it to reset the car – but the battery is in the trunk, which won’t open. I don’t really feel like crawling through the back seat into the trunk on a maybe fix so I am at square 1 (towing) again.
I know that someone has a great idea that will save me from having to mess with the highly efficient dealer.

Thanks much!
Is there a chance that something was left on and your battery is now dead? This link is from the "Challenger Tips & Tricks" link in my sig:

http://www.sequentialtaillights.com/dodge/Top%20Challenger%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.htm#ChallTip126
 

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i just changed the batteries in mine and it works fine now. the dealership put new batteries for free even after warranty was up. you might as well do both fobs. be sure to put a mark on of the fobs so you know which one got changed
 

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Challenger Old Guy...
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6,527 Posts
DOA and WIN (Wireless Ignition Node)

I walked out to my car this morning to go to work (yikes) and my 2011 STR8 Challenger 6 speed manual would have nothing to do with the fob. I took another car to work. I talked to local dealer service while still at work – they told me to take the metal key out of the fob, unlock the door, gently pry off the start/stop button and then use the metal key to start the car as a short term fix. They wanted to set a service appointment and I told them that I would get back to them.
So I just got home. I took the metal key out of the fob (which now has a brand new battery) and opened the door. I got in, gently pried off the button and it was obvious that the metal key was not going to start the car, at least in the ignition area. I looked at the forum and found that the end of the fob starts the car in this case. So I put the fob in the ignition area and it did act like a key.
Unfortunately the fob did not start the car and is now stuck in the ignition. The fob will turn but won’t come out. So at this point, the only course of action that I can see is to have the car towed to the dealer and let them play with it. My only other idea was to disconnect the car battery and then reconnect it to reset the car – but the battery is in the trunk, which won’t open. I don’t really feel like crawling through the back seat into the trunk on a maybe fix so I am at square 1 (towing) again.
I know that someone has a great idea that will save me from having to mess with the highly efficient dealer.
spicoli;

What you have described is a classic condition known as a dead battery.
The car battery powers all the devices (except FOBIK) and you have now
discovered this aggravating condition. I knew this immediately when you
stated the FOBIK was locked in the WIN and would not come out.

Now, what caused the battery to go dead?

There could be several reasons but be careful in using the STOP/START
button, as you can inadvertently hit the engine ONCE to many times and
place the IGN in the ON position when quickly exiting the vehicle.

When you get some time, you might want to read through this link as it
will yield some useful information for things you will run into in the future
when owning this vehicle.

For a comprehensive listing of Dodge Challenger KeyLess Go Entry System
"tips and tricks" click here.

There is the possibility that the dealer will charge up the battery and it
will work great and nothing will be indicated what discharged the battery.


:3-smoke:


.

 

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no doubt us new owners appreciate the time and effort it took to share this information
 

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2012 RT Redline Tri Coat
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Key Fob battery or another larger issue?

Two weeks ago, my fob battery died. I grabbed my spare fob and kept on rolling for another week. Then, after lunch with an employee, I jumped in, used the push button ignition and the car started. Since it was warm, I attempted to lower the windows and noticed that none of the car' electrical systems were working. The engine was running just fine, the vehicle went into gear just fine, but I could not turn off the car. It was really odd.

I pulled out a flat tip screwdriver and started slowly pulling out the push button ignition and while pulling it out, the electrical systems all came back on. If I had not driven and my employee had not seen all of the same things as I did, I think most people would not believe me.

Since the button was partially out, I removed it entirely and placed the key into the ignition and turned off the car. I also restarted the car and turned it off again twice, just in case. I did not want to go into traffic with a car that loses power.

Today, I brought my vehicle to Expressway Dodge in Evansville, IN. They were really late getting my vehicle and after a basic 20 minute review they told me that the car had a "key fob" code and that they cleared it and replaced the battery.

So, no offense to the professional auto mechanics on this thread, but I have to call foul on this one. I believe the actuator is the issue, not the fob. I have had problems in the past with the sunroof not energizing and was able to perform a hard reboot to clear the issue.

Can anyone else provide some guidance on this? Am I off base?
 

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I just replace the batteries in our fobiks once a year to keep them working 100%. 2010 had problems, 2009s including mine worked fine. The fobiks are very sensitive to battery state. 2009s just snap apart using the metal key. Insert in the slot at the edge of the fobik and pry.
 
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