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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
WARNING MUCH HAS BEEN DISCOVERED SINCE THIS THREAD WAS STARTED, EVERY CHALLENGER OWNER NEEDS TO READ THIS TO THE END! BE SAFE EVERYONE! Ry


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For almost a year now we have been hearing a mysterious clicking sound, that sounded like it was coming from the right front wheel, this sound seemed to coincide with drive speed. If you hear this sound it is unnerving especially if you begin imagining your front wheel coming off while driving down the road. Most of my upgrades I have invested money into are to increase my 5.7s power and I was most comfortable after swapping the rear differential to the 3.09 LSD Hellcat Differential which is rated over 800HP. The automatic transmission in the 5.7 is the same transmission that is in the 392 Scat Pack so power increase to the 5.7 should be safe at least a 100HP Plus from the 5.7s stock power level. Those are assumptions and we all know what assume actually means broken down, ass u me.

The wheel clicking sound has led to my replacing the front wheel bearings right and left, the front rotors right and left, the front brake pads right and left, and the left front brake caliper because it was dragging and not releasing. The front left wheel bearing was making a clicking sound so I replaced both left and right wheel bearings and thought I had resolved the clicking we were hearing in the car. But very shortly the clicking returned that I had thought was resolved I love cranking my music up, and the clicking sound could not be heard over the music, so I thought all was well. Seeing as how Black Beauty had brand new wheel bearings up front, I was no longer concerned a front wheel was just going to come off driving down the road. I had run a few consecutive 0 ~ 60s the other day and realized the clicking sound was back and from the drivers side it sounded like the front right wheel again???

But from the passenger seat my wife pinpointed the sound coming from the left side?, so we swapped off and from the passenger side I concurred where the sound seemed to be coming from? But with the stereo off while she was driving I started to move around in the car and it seemed to be coming from more towards the rear? Sounds on these cars can be very tricky to track down especially if it is being car body transmitted. I finally discovered the sound was coming from underneath the car floorboard directly behind the console, right where the 2 piece driveshaft center bearing support is located. I literally stuck my head down between the console and back seat and sure enough the sound was crystal clear. I told my wife take this car straight back to the house and be easy about it!

Ordered an OEM replacement 2 piece driveshaft assembly yesterday, I figured since the first has lasted close to 60,000 miles, the 2 piece OEM should be OK for another 50,000 miles at least. Seeing as how I do not take mine to the drag strip and it is for street use horsing it every now and then. I researched into the single one piece drive shaft and the aluminum is rated at 1,000HP and the Carbon Fiber around 1,500HP, but the Aluminum is a 4" diameter shaft and your exhaust has to be modified to run it, and since I have no intentions of altering my Magnaflow exhaust system, I forego the single shaft. Any of you building a lot of power in your 5.7s, if you will be taking it to the strip and running drag radials, you had better consider replacing your stock driveshaft, with a single shaft rated for more horsepower.

There's a good reason the drag strip requires a driveshaft safety loop to catch the shaft in a major failure.
For street use the OEM is fine but you may want to look up the Chrysler drive shaft failures, as they have replaced a lot of them as recalls. I should get mine hopefully sometime next week and replace it. I hope all of you are doing well through these difficult times! Ry
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It may be becoming more obvious why so many Challengers and Chargers have come out of the factory door running 245 width tires especially on the rear, I thought it extremely odd that a 392 Scat Pack would ever be released with 245 tires at it's power level? But obviously Dodge has it's reasons and knows the true weak link in the chain is the 2 piece drive shaft assembly. Once you go to wider rear rims to be able to run wider rear tires, you've increased the driveshafts pressure load with just normal and occasionally aggressive driving. With more upgraded horsepower each step up in power does not mean that driveshaft can still handle it, with much wider rear tires, than the factory installed. Something the aftermarket wheel industry could care less about as they make the widest rims you can fit under your Challenger all the time knowing that failure is going to occur in the weakest link in the chain. So this is a caution guys and gals, be careful! Ry
 

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Discussion Starter #3
One of the reasons for my going back with the OEM 2 piece setup is the price, the single piece 4" aluminum drive shaft is over twice the price of the stock OEM, the carbon fiber drive shaft is way more than that. The second reason is it is usually not an off the shelf item it normally has to be built with a certain lead time before it is ready to be shipped to you.
That delay, not the price was a major reason, I want to drive my Challenger, Now! The third reason was the websites warning of having to modify the exhaust, and my Magnaflow system is pretty much still new, and I don't want to modify it to accommodate a 4" aluminum driveshaft for just street use, even though the aluminum shafts 1,000HP rating is attractable, and in the process eliminating the center support and 2 additional joints. Like I previously said if you'll be drag strip racing the single shaft is the best choice. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter #4
IF, there is any interest, when my OEM shaft assembly shows up I will take pictures of the replacement procedure and post them? I'll have to drop the entire exhaust assembly to even get access to it, if no interest, I'll just replace it and be done with it! Ry
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Did you look into a Chrome Moly shaft or just have your drive shaft repaired ? What shop are you dealing with ?
For the 2015 and up years, I did not even see a Chrome Moly drive shaft, do you have a link to a direct fit supplier?

I'm not using a shop, I refuse to pay someone for something like this, there was no obvious repair parts available online that I saw, or I would probably have rebuit it myself. The price of the OEM replacement is a little over 400 bucks, and that's just bolt up and be done with it. Hopefully!
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Maybe it's not your drive shaft and is just your driveshaft center support bearing ? Have your been under your car ?
No I have not been under the car for this situation but I will when I replace it, and the new assembly comes with the center support attached. What year is your Challenger?

When I replace it I'll discover exactly what the problem is and you may be right it may only be the center support bearing, but since it's approaching 60,000 miles I don't have a problem with replacing the entire thing.
 

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No I have not been under the car for this situation but I will when I replace it, and the new assembly comes with the center support attached. What year is your Challenger?

When I replace it I'll discover exactly what the problem is and you may be right it may only be the center support bearing, but since it's approaching 60,000 miles I don't have a problem with replacing the entire thing.
2011 SRT with a Pro Charger and 5 speed auto - - - - - -My son is a master tech at a Dodge dealership and does all my work including smog. anyways good luck with your car . . . . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
2011 SRT with a Pro Charger and 5 speed auto - - - - - -My son is a master tech at a Dodge dealership and does all my work including smog. anyways good luck with your car . . . . . . .
Thanks, That's a really nice ride you have, and it's fantastic you have your son to work on it for you!!!

I have done all of my modifications myself, except changing the tires and the alignment, including the entire exhaust system from the engine block back.

I know exactly what is involved to even get access to the center support bearing, and by the time I have that direct access to the bearing assembly, it is a perfect time to just change out the entire driveshaft assembly.

Possibly the only problem may be the center bearing support?

I really don't know, but to even be able to inspect that, I have to drop the exhaust at least cat back, and the heat shields to even gain access to the drive shaft center support bearing.

So seeing as how at that time the entire driveshaft will be accessible, I may as well change the entire assembly and it should be good to go for quite some time after that.

This noise has been a nagging concern for almost a year now, and if this resolves it completely, it will also restore my confidence in driving the car. :) Ry
 

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IF, there is any interest, when my OEM shaft assembly shows up I will take pictures of the replacement procedure and post them? I'll have to drop the entire exhaust assembly to even get access to it, if no interest, I'll just replace it and be done with it! Ry
Yes post photos. A little tip for you, watch this video on u tube, this guy shows the whole process of replacing the bearing and removing the drive shaft, it is the best on u tube ....go to u tube and type in ............"How to replace driveshaft center bearing 05-10 chrysler 300".............video is from 1A Auto Parts. This will help you a whole lot.
 

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2015 sxt/rt 5.7 with scat pack kits 1 &2
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For almost a year now we have been hearing a mysterious clicking sound, that sounded like it was coming from the right front wheel, this sound seemed to coincide with drive speed. If you hear this sound it is unnerving especially if you begin imagining your front wheel coming off while driving down the road. Most of my upgrades I have invested money into are to increase my 5.7s power and I was most comfortable after swapping the rear differential to the 3.09 LSD Hellcat Differential which is rated over 800HP. The automatic transmission in the 5.7 is the same transmission that is in the 392 Scat Pack so power increase to the 5.7 should be safe at least a 100HP Plus from the 5.7s stock power level. Those are assumptions and we all know what assume actually means broken down, ass u me.

The wheel clicking sound has led to my replacing the front wheel bearings right and left, the front rotors right and left, the front brake pads right and left, and the left front brake caliper because it was dragging and not releasing. The front left wheel bearing was making a clicking sound so I replaced both left and right wheel bearings and thought I had resolved the clicking we were hearing in the car. But very shortly the clicking returned that I had thought was resolved I love cranking my music up, and the clicking sound could not be heard over the music, so I thought all was well. Seeing as how Black Beauty had brand new wheel bearings up front, I was no longer concerned a front wheel was just going to come off driving down the road. I had run a few consecutive 0 ~ 60s the other day and realized the clicking sound was back and from the drivers side it sounded like the front right wheel again???

But from the passenger seat my wife pinpointed the sound coming from the left side?, so we swapped off and from the passenger side I concurred where the sound seemed to be coming from? But with the stereo off while she was driving I started to move around in the car and it seemed to be coming from more towards the rear? Sounds on these cars can be very tricky to track down especially if it is being car body transmitted. I finally discovered the sound was coming from underneath the car floorboard directly behind the console, right where the 2 piece driveshaft center bearing support is located. I literally stuck my head down between the console and back seat and sure enough the sound was crystal clear. I told my wife take this car straight back to the house and be easy about it!

Ordered an OEM replacement 2 piece driveshaft assembly yesterday, I figured since the first has lasted close to 60,000 miles, the 2 piece OEM should be OK for another 50,000 miles at least. Seeing as how I do not take mine to the drag strip and it is for street use horsing it every now and then. I researched into the single one piece drive shaft and the aluminum is rated at 1,000HP and the Carbon Fiber around 1,500HP, but the Aluminum is a 4" diameter shaft and your exhaust has to be modified to run it, and since I have no intentions of altering my Magnaflow exhaust system, I forego the single shaft. Any of you building a lot of power in your 5.7s, if you will be taking it to the strip and running drag radials, you had better consider replacing your stock driveshaft, with a single shaft rated for more horsepower.

There's a good reason the drag strip requires a driveshaft safety loop to catch the shaft in a major failure.
For street use the OEM is fine but you may want to look up the Chrysler drive shaft failures, as they have replaced a lot of them as recalls. I should get mine hopefully sometime next week and replace it. I hope all of you are doing well through these difficult times! Ry
ry ,the drive shafts in our 5.7 s are the same p/n as the 6.4s so it can handle the added horsepower its the center bearing that's had some defective issues . I had to replace mine (the whole drive shaft as they do not replace the center bearing )under warranty in april . same thing ticking sounded like a stick in the brake rotor or a card on a bike spoke when we were kids
 

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ry ,the drive shafts in our 5.7 s are the same p/n as the 6.4s so it can handle the added horsepower its the center bearing that's had some defective issues . I had to replace mine (the whole drive shaft as they do not replace the center bearing )under warranty in april . same thing ticking sounded like a stick in the brake rotor or a card on a bike spoke when we were kids
I don't believe dealership's replace just the carrier bearing on warranty work, they replace the whole drive shaft assembly. But if you do this repair at home you can buy the carrier bearing assembly from the dealer parts dept. If I am right, it is not the bearing that goes bad, it is the rubber mount the bearing is encased in.
 

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IF, there is any interest, when my OEM shaft assembly shows up I will take pictures of the replacement procedure and post them? I'll have to drop the entire exhaust assembly to even get access to it, if no interest, I'll just replace it and be done with it! Ry
Hey Ry, if you could, post up a YouTube of the sound you described. I haven't heard anything from coming from my Challenger since I upgraded my wheels and tires last year, but I've only put 5000 miles on her over the past 14 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Driveshafts out of stock, won't be in till August 10th. :(
 
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Hey Ry, if you could, post up a YouTube of the sound you described. I haven't heard anything from coming from my Challenger since I upgraded my wheels and tires last year, but I've only put 5000 miles on her over the past 14 months.
The sound is exactly like a playing card on bicycle spokes.
 

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2015 sxt/rt 5.7 with scat pack kits 1 &2
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I don't believe dealership's replace just the carrier bearing on warranty work, they replace the whole drive shaft assembly. But if you do this repair at home you can buy the carrier bearing assembly from the dealer parts dept. If I am right, it is not the bearing that goes bad, it is the rubber mount the bearing is encased in.
center bearing isn't listed or sold separately at the dodge dealer or online at mopar
 

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Driveshafts out of stock, won't be in till August 10th. :(
there is a lot of our cars that have had to have this replaced ,and a whole lot more scatpacks also good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #20
HHP or white in NC may have some dss units in stock..
Rock auto may have some options 9
Rock Auto did not have any in stock, Steve White did not list it as not being in stock, but they did not have one in stock that's where I've actually ordered from, I've bought from them before and this IMO is a critical element that needs to be the correct item, and they've used my Vin# to confirm fit, so I'll just wait.
 
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