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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In the first part of the upgrade to my RT, I swapped in a 6.4L 6-speed cam, Manley 0.080” pushrods, Scat Pack Stage 3 ported heads with high strength “viper” springs, BBK ceramic shorty headers and Solo high flow cats. Along with the Solo cat back and email tune, I ended up with
375 hp / 385 lb-ft.


It was a fun project months in the planning. It was sparked by a HPDE track day where I consistently ran out of revs coming out of a turn. So the 6.4 cam which pulls to 6,000 rpm which does not require a phase limiter went on the list. Pushing the revs, I did not want to bend a rod or float a valve or bind a spring so in went the pushrods and ported heads with high rpm valve train onto the list. First thing actually that I changed were my brakes which were warped before the HPDE day. That’s when the stop tech rotors went on. It was a little unnerving late-braking hard at the end of the straightaway at 140 mph to avoid shutter.

That got me thinking about the everything downstream of the cam. Finished off the list with shorty headers, since I planned on pulling the heads anyway, and might as well put on high flow cats - the only thing left on the exhaust side.

Now I’m going to work on the intake side of things. I have a cervini’s ram air intake coming tomorrow and a ported 80-85 mm throttle body on its way.
EDIT It's now scheduled for 6/11/20 delivery due to the riots and curfews. Still should come before I take a couple of weeks off at the end of the month.

The ram air intake will get prepped and painted. I’m thinking gloss black with some red accents. The prep is pretty serious so I’ll put in some elbow grease and get ‘er done. It’s hard to gage how long it will take since I’m no painter and I go slow. May 8 hours? There’s a boat load of intermediate steps, multiple layers of primer to put down just to get it ready to paint. I don’t want to rush it either and end up with a crappy paint job.

When the throttle body comes I’m going to port match the air intake to the heads, as well as the throttle body to the inlet. Then I’ll port the runners, smooth it out and blend it all together. I figured it’ll take about 10 hours to port the intake plus cleaning time both before and after porting. Figure 12-15 hours for the whole job.

I’m hoping to gain a few ponies with this. My guess with these mods:
Ported tb (5 hrspwers)
Ported intake (5 herspwers)
Dial in the tune (I’m running quite rich at the moment) (10 hrspwers)

395 hp / 405 lb-ft
No way to measure what the cervini’s ram air will add. They claim 15 hrspwers. I might claim 10 if I need the ponies for bragging rights on 400 hrspwers.

Sound reasonable?
 
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
MMX throttle body cams in. The machine work doesn’t look as good as the fastman’s, but as long as it works. The transition occurs over 1/4” versus continual transition on the FM’s.
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The shallow transition matches the backside which is also ported. @RyzRT is yours ported on the backside?

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I will port match the intake to the backside. The surface has a texture like the ported heads I put on in Part I.

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On the intake I want to keep some texture to match, so I don’t think I’ll polish it. In fact I may roughen the surface. MMX Ported intakes come unpolished too. The science behind it is to provide a thin layer of air from friction on the intake walls. That air will slow allowing most of the air to pass with minimal friction. Exhaust ports can be polished. I did not do that on my heads.
 

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Was you're car tuned? Only asking because I would think with ported heads and cam should be more HP.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes it was tuned after the cam and heads went in. However it was an email tune. When I got it dyno’d, it is running so rich that the tuner thought there was power to be gained there. It came in 10 hp less than I was expecting. I emailed the tuner and got a revised tune. But it has not been dyno’d since then.

After I get the intake sorted, I’ll get it dyno tuned. Wondering if my trinity will become obsolete if he tunes with hp tuners. Anyone know?
 
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TheFastMan will taper the back side if you request it, he said it had no performance effect one way or the other, so I saw no reason to do it, and did not request it.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Cervini’s ram air hood piece came today. Air box is still in transit 🤔. I am surprise that it is black.L. I thought it would be white and I was going to paint it black. Now I do t have to paint it. So this will be pretty much plug’n’play. 🥱.
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Discussion Starter #8
The air box came in the mail yesterday, without the metal grill and without air filter. Maybe it’s covid-19, but they’re having K&N drop ship the filter to me. Seems like they could have done that two weeks ago. Oh well. Probably going to start porting the intake next week during time off. I’ll put the ram air kit on when the filter gets here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Came home from the woods today and the filter arrived. I’ve got a week off before going back to the woods. Cleaned up the garage and figured I had enough daylight to get the ram air kit installed.

I struggled as bit at first because the rubber tube on the end of the filter is a full 1/4” bigger than the opening in the air box. After trying to cram it on there, I decided to set the hose clamp that came with the filter down about 1/2” from the end, and squeeze it down to size. Then I popped in in the hole, and backed the clamp off slowly as I applied pressure on the end of the filter to seat the filter in the air box.That was the only way I could get it on there. Lots of little finagling to get the clamp off too.

I was able to get the sound deadening pad plastic retainers off in one piece mostly. After watching a couple of install videos, the supplied push pins are too long for the center three holes. So I trimmed the retaining wings on the plastic retainers about 1/16”and they worked perfectly.

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I drilled out about 25 holes in the underside of the hood and installed the plastic retainers. one if the holes was mismatched and I ended up using a plastic rivet instead because the ram air duct would not sit flush with the hood.

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I’m still waiting for the metal grill to finish up but it will function without it.

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It looks pretty understated. The ram air duct blends right in. We’ll see how it drives later. Tomorrow I’m off to my father in-law’s to clean out his tool chest stack. Then I’m coming home with a new-to-me Craftsman mechanic’s tool chest. I’m excited because I could really use one at this point and after looking at them in stores, this set would cost more than I could afford.

After I get the tools organized I’ll pull the intake manifold and start cleaning before porting begins....
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I had to do a little dumpster diving but it’s going out tomorrow morning so you lucked out.

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100 likes if I could. You are a life saver. I bought a used T/A hood and the it only came with the top and box. Got to se if I can rig something up using part of my Mopar cai and the box. Looks like the Mopar box is a couple of inches for hood to close.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Since I’ve been working home, I figured it was a good time to work on the intake manifold.
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I took a bunch of pictures, partly to add to my build thread, and partly to remember what I did. Apologies in advance for basic pics and info.

First thing after depressurizing the fuel lines was to remove the intake tube.
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Then I pulled the lines to the catch can. Ths time around I left the catch can in place which I could not do when I swapped the heads out.
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Next I pulled the electrical plug from the rear.
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I removed the (10) 8 mm bolts using the spec’d pattern.
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I had terrible access to the rear vacuum line. I had a heck of a time last time around you might recall and ended up cutting the line off the barb. That left me with too little length to swing the intake around to pry it off.
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So I took the line off of the sensor port instead.
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I set the intake on my bench and starting stripping it. Sensor port off...
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...
...
...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Fuel rails and injectors came off next. First had to remove the engine cover studs. 10 mm wratcheting wrench fit perfectly.
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PCV regulator came next...
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I looked inside to assess porting possibilities and take note of the air intake right at the inlet. Looks really clean after 52,000 miles. Just opposite the PCV port it looks clean as well. Catch can is doing it’s job.
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The ports don’t look too bad in terms of porting needs. In fact the sides have a recessed channel. Some ports have a slight step there but most won’t need work on the sides. You can see shadows where it needs to be smoothed.
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I then added straight Purple Power and scrubbed out each port with a dryer vent brush.
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It soaked overnight. Washed it out today after work and measured the intake port.
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The MM ported TB is less than 1 mm smaller. So it’s a great fit.
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I am liking the transitions for the centuri effect. The old TB is a true 80 mm. I think the extra 4 mm at the intake interface will allow air to move better to the chamber... try and use up some of the spare fuel I have in the tune.
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I wiped it down and set it to dry. Tomorrow I will port match it to the heads (will be interesting to see how much overlap there is with these Scat Pack S3 heads.
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Hit it after work. Match marked to the heads with red layout fluid on the intake and blue high spot on the heads, scribed, cleaned, ported and degreased once again. Did it in 6 hours straight. I need to run it Saturday. It’s drying overnight. I’ll get up tomorrow and put it back together.

Dremel tool with the flexible extension and sanding cylinders worked great. I took off the extra bit from the short side of the runners, sanded down the ridges and blended it all together. I hit all the ports with 220 grit sandpaper at the end to blend it better and smooth it out.

I only took off material from the sides as needed to blend. Some of the discontinuities were mismatched runs of tube, not ridges. Those took the longest to blend as far down as I could. I didn’t touch the injector ports.

All in all it took 9 hours including cleaning. Figure a couple hours tomorrow assembling and reinstalling for 11 hours total. That’s pretty close to what I was thinking...12-15 if I was going to port the intake, which I did not end up doing. Looking forward to putting the intake back on with the ported tb and see how it feels.

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@Fast Black

Thanks for sharing all these pictures of the work you are doing it is very much appreciated! Ry
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Here’s a video of the intake. Got it all put back together. Pretty uneventful. When installing the tb, the spec calls for 9 ft-lbs of torque. No way they would come up to torque without stripping the intake. So I got them as tight as they would go without over tightening. And if you’re pulling your intake don’t forget to loc tite the bolts!

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Took my car out for a couple of drives. It feels like there is much better response up to 4,000 rpm compared to before, and afterwards from 4,000+ rpm it pulls very strongly. I will be taking it to the dyno next week. I’m hoping to be at or near 400 rwhp. They’re just numbers though. I’m very happy with the performance regardless.

My main goal at the dyno is to dial in the tune to reduce fuel (increase AFR). I will get a baseline dyno to see what increases resulted from the ported tb and intake porting and of course a final run after the tune is dialed in. Switching to HP tuners so my diablosport trinity will become just a code reader I think.

does anyone have experience switching from diablosport to HP? What controls do you have with your handheld trinity afterwards? How useful is your trinity after switching to HP?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I did not end up going to the dyno after all. I made an appointment, but made a discovery as I was chasing down the exhaust leak. I took it to a local shop to get it up on a lift and find out what’s leaking. Turns out that the header is cracked at the collector. They wrote it up for me.

So I went back to BBK with the quote and they offered their warranty replacement to me, though no payment for install. that’s fine since I’m doing the install. unfortunately the headers have been back ordered and I still don’t have replacements.

Today I asked if long tube headers with catted short midpipes would be an acceptable substitute. We’ll see what he says. May be a long shot, but perhaps they send out long tubes to get rid of me emailing them? I’ll have to buy the cats at cost or something like that.

Question: will that setup pass OBDII emission testing? Anyone here with long tubes/catted short mid pipes pass emissions (no visual required)?
 

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Well I did not end up going to the dyno after all. I made an appointment, but made a discovery as I was chasing down the exhaust leak. I took it to a local shop to get it up on a lift and find out what’s leaking. Turns out that the header is cracked at the collector. They wrote it up for me.

So I went back to BBK with the quote and they offered their warranty replacement to me, though no payment for install. that’s fine since I’m doing the install. unfortunately the headers have been back ordered and I still don’t have replacements.
Is it cracked at the weld?
Do you have a picture of it?
 
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