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Its usually just a patch needed in lower area in front of the rear wheel. There are some other threads with a lot of pics where they show the problem area. I don't think they make patches for that area yet but a good body man can make one. I am a land surveyor if that helps you place where I work, used to McClure.
used to? did your finally retire!? I remember when you first got your rt. are you still driving the same one? maybe ill at least go get a quote from a body shop and see how bad it will really be.
 

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I retire in about 6 months but we are called IMEG now. I still have my 2010 RT, it just turned over 20,000 miles about a month ago. Take it to Tillet's and get a quote, they did some rust repair on that 04 Ram I had with the Cummins in it and it came out good. I know someone else that had some work done on a hot rod and it came out nice.
 

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thats awesome! the end is in sight. im still at bcz and have been contemplating getting my pls. ill have to check them out and maybe matt sutton.
 

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View attachment 209364 View attachment 209366

In case anyone was curious to see my diy progress or any tips would be appreciated if anyone else has tried to take on this project themselves
Yes we are all interested in your DIY progress..........Keep posting pictures of your work ! ..Tip.....make sure to remove all the rust on the inside, use Navel jelly, it is a rust remover in a jar , it is a pink gel,apply it with a cheap paint brush , may have to use it 4 times to get rid of the rust,make sure to coat all bare metal afterwards, I would suggest to apply lots of oil based enamel, apply it liberally in there. I would then coat the inside with a good layer of axle bearing grease, It won't rust then.......Oh..........do not put the foam back in there.Keep up the good work.
 

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When you weld, do just a short segment at a time, it will warp the sheet metal less. You also have to figure out where to blend the paint, there is no clean body line to quit at. Unless yo do the entire panel you might have to quit just above the patch and live with it.
 

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hadnt even considered navel jelly. Ill definitely give that a try! I bought some eastwood products. platinum rust encapsulator and internal frame coating with the long hose and 360° spray nozzle. my soon to be step dad has lots of experience in body work and a shop and ive helped him with some cad work so hes happy to return the favor and help out with the car. ive been watching tons of videos. I can imagine the the finished product wont be great, but Im thinking maybe a little vinyl wrap at the end might do the trick.
 

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Don’t use the naval jelly in direct sunlight as it will dry and then you have to sand, grind, brush it off. Use nice thick coats and let it sit a while so you don’t have to recoat as much. Great stuff!
 

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Sure looks better than a rusted panel and a lot better than I could do.
 

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2010 SRT8 Brilliant Blech.. I have such bad rot in the rear quarter panels that the paint has fallen off and the metal is exposed showing both rust and clean metal. Devastated and broke from a divorce. My baby sits outdoors when it used to be garage kept. It is my DD but I took amazing care of her. So sad.
 

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Common issue for 2008 thru 2014 Challengers. (re-designed quarter panels where they mate with inner fender wells, started with 2015 model year) Water, road debris and salt intrusion soaks the foam insulation in that area and never dries out. I had both lower rear quarter panels replaced on my 2010 R/T. Several threads concerning this issue (including one from me). Good luck. The only way to fix the rust is to replace the lower sections, remove ALL the foam insulation and treat the area with rust inhibitors.
 

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Yea, I plan on getting something done with it when I my divorce is over and I get back on my feet. Sad thing is the car is a 2010 with only 64k on it but looks like a beat up prostitute. My current apt has little parking and I have been been door dinged so badly in 3 spots and a hit and run that crushed the rear QP. So I am hoping to get the both of them fixed on one side by replacing the QP on one side then seeing what can be done with the other.
 

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Another reason why the life time warranty purchase was a good buy for me.
I am not real happy that I may have to use the extended warranty on possible rust issues years later though.

I hope you get it all taken care of. :)
I purchased the Mopar Vehicle Protection lifetime bumper to bumper warranty, is this what you have? They told me they don’t cover corrosion.
 

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Common issue for 2008 thru 2014 Challengers. (re-designed quarter panels where they mate with inner fender wells, started with 2015 model year) Water, road debris and salt intrusion soaks the foam insulation in that area and never dries out. I had both lower rear quarter panels replaced on my 2010 R/T. Several threads concerning this issue (including one from me). Good luck. The only way to fix the rust is to replace the lower sections, remove ALL the foam insulation and treat the area with rust inhibitors.
Hi, I read your posts from 2016 and I was wondering how successful you were with the RTV silicone sealant on the inner fender well? I purchased my dream car, a 2020 Challenger R/T manual, brand new less than two months ago. The posts I’ve read suggest that 2015 and later Challengers are less likely to have the gaps and water intrusion, but I don’t want rust to happen to this car! Also, is it necessary to remove the rocker panels and seal those holes as well?
 

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Hi, I read your posts from 2016 and I was wondering how successful you were with the RTV silicone sealant on the inner fender well? I purchased my dream car, a 2020 Challenger R/T manual, brand new less than two months ago. The posts I’ve read suggest that 2015 and later Challengers are less likely to have the gaps and water intrusion, but I don’t want rust to happen to this car! Also, is it necessary to remove the rocker panels and seal those holes as well?
The pre-15 models rusted because the foam prevented moisture escape out the drain holes. Many repairs done by body shops have had significant amounts of water pour out when drilling in from underneath or cutting into the panel from outside to make discovery on how far rust has migrated. On my 2013, I pulled out the rear seat and dug out all the foam and dissolved the rest with acetone. Then after a good neutral chemical flush, we dried with compressed air and sprayed the shit out of the entire cavity on both sides with Fluid Film. Just recently on my son's 2018 Hellcat, we did the same when brand new with the fluid film. At one point in the past we tried to contact the Brampton assembly plant to ask why they filled these areas with foam but, we never got an answer.
-John
 

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Hi, I read your posts from 2016 and I was wondering how successful you were with the RTV silicone sealant on the inner fender well? I purchased my dream car, a 2020 Challenger R/T manual, brand new less than two months ago. The posts I’ve read suggest that 2015 and later Challengers are less likely to have the gaps and water intrusion, but I don’t want rust to happen to this car! Also, is it necessary to remove the rocker panels and seal those holes as well?
I applied the RTV silicone in Oct. 2016 (after I picked up my R/T from the body shop). Still in place and still pliable. Best of all, going on five years and no signs of rust returning.
 
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