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About 330.
 

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How about hp to the flywheel an a stock 2012 5.7 auto?
No way to accurately tell but I'm sure some people would say the factory rated numbers are under rated.
 

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I'd haveta agree with that assessment dodge boy. This car's faster than my old '70 383, 8.5 compression ratio car, and that did 13.60's at 103 mph all day long with Mickey Thompson "stickies" mounted on the rear. Even though I haven't run my 2012, I can tell. I guess one would have to accurately know what the total chassis loss is to get that flywheel hp. I have gotten loss estimates from 12% all the way to 25% from various people.
 

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Typically (although its not an exact science), HP at the crank is roughly 15% greater than at the rear wheels in these cars. So if your RWHP is 352, then at the crank you are approximately 415HP. That a rough approximation but you get the drift
 

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Look at it this way, you got maybe as much as a 10% gain in power. Its tough to get much more than that without going to a supercharger. Also what kind of dyno was used? Dyno's give different numbers. My car put down 370 and a little over 400 ft-lbs. Reading your mods your car is probably stronger than mine, I'd just say I had a dyno that gave higher numbers.
 

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What I have found is that auto cars stock dyno ~315, manual ~330hp
You sound about right on for what mods you have. With a tune, CAI, fast man ported TB, 180 thermostat, and shorty headers I made 353hp/374tq. Installed a lame duck MM cam and got 363/379
 

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Best pull on my auto was 334.x hp. Only thing I'd done to it was the Blastin' Bob's exhaust, which I can't imagine contributed too much in the way of HP
 

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Best pull on my auto was 334.x hp. Only thing I'd done to it was the Blastin' Bob's exhaust, which I can't imagine contributed too much in the way of HP
330 to 345 is basically what I seen from a stock RT. Standards are usually slightly higher.
 

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I have seen autos post anywhere from 30xhp to 34xhp. Dynamometers vary from one to another. Good tool once you have a baseline to measure the effectiveness of your mods so long as it's done one the same one. Someone getting 335hp on one dyno will post 305 on another somewhere else.

Or as a member on another forum recently posted, he made 399hp I believe on the AMP mustang dyno, went home to his local dyno and put down 360ish, and went to another dyno and made 345hp with zero changes to car. One baseline to another persons baseline on another dyno don't really mean much at all within 30hp. Just track your mods against your own baseline.

I wish I would have gotten a completely stock baseline, but I will have to go from the first one I did get.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Yeah, the car has a custom tune.

Now has a true CAI set-up, going to be on a dyno (same dyno/tech) this coming Sunday. Interested to see if I gain anything, not expecting much. It's a K&N 63 series Air charger.

Magnaflow mids/HF cats next on the list. That should complete my exhaust set-up.
 

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So what I'm getting from this is: Dyno the car stock, then dyno it after mods. Thank You
 

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Exactly! Then you know what you have gained from a part. Say you decide you want to install headers - get your stock baseline dyno, install the headers, and return to dyno to see what the gain was. Say your stock run was 325rwhp & 345rwtq. With headers you made 345/360. You now know what the headers are good for on your car.
Get a cam next? Just install and dyno again to see what it gets you over the 345/360 before run.
 

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The baseline on my 2013 R/T M6 was 346hp\378tq RWHP (although I had Magnaflow competition series exhaust and Mopar CAI at the time of my first baseline so I really don't know what they added if anything over stock). I then had a 392 cam, JBA shorties and a custom tune done. Now I am sitting at 386hp\379tq RWHP.
 
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