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That sounds similar to my discovery.

I would suggest torquing back to 108inlbs just one more time and stop, both Johnnyreb and I, have put indicator marks on our bolts to monitor if the bolts back out. If they are not backing out continuing to torque could possibly damage the plastic, at this point I do not know whether the torque value has changed or not, but I do know the bolts are exactly where they were the last time they were torqued to 108inlbs.

So possibly if the bolts do not move, but the torque value lessens, it has to be a combination of the plastic intake manifold and the intake manifold seals compressing. Which logically means if the bolts are staying static it's not going to get back as low as 20inlbs as was first discovered. Ry
Agreed, although I am still waiting to put some miles on mine after the retorque, I don't expect any different results then Ry has gotten.

I would think that at some point you will reach maximum compression on both the Manifold and the gasket( Probably just before it breaks) o_O

At that point I think it should stabilize as Ry I think is alluding too.
 

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That sounds similar to my discovery.

I would suggest torquing back to 108inlbs just one more time and stop, both Johnnyreb and I, have put indicator marks on our bolts to monitor if the bolts back out. If they are not backing out continuing to torque could possibly damage the plastic, at this point I do not know whether the torque value has changed or not, but I do know the bolts are exactly where they were the last time they were torqued to 108inlbs.

So possibly if the bolts do not move, but the torque value lessens, it has to be a combination of the plastic intake manifold and the intake manifold seals compressing. Which logically means if the bolts are staying static it's not going to get back as low as 20inlbs as was first discovered. Ry
One last thought, Next time I go to a large dealership that has some experience on these cars I am going to have a conversation about this as I am looking for a dealership to install the cams and heads anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
At that point I think it should stabilize as Ry I think is alluding too.
Affirmative, That is what I am hoping is going to happen. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Update:
It has been 2 months since I marked my intake manifold bolts, they have not moved at all.
So IMO, this is not a bolt backing out situation. Ry
 
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Discussion Starter #127
Any of you that have not actually checked these intake manifold bolts on the 5.7s Plastic Intake Manifold, I urge you to do so, especially with some miles on it, because you can be loosing performance power that you won't even realize is happening until they are tightened back to their spec'd value.

Believe it or not if they are loose enough and you've been a little disappointed with your 5.7s performance, and, have been considering upgrades at least check these bolts first, if they are loose you will notice a performance change, the engine becomes more responsive and stronger performing. Ry
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Update: It has been 3 months now since the alignment marks were put on the Intake Manifold bolts, they have not moved at all! (y)

So obviously after torquing to the 108inlbs and waiting a good month of driving, hot and cold cycling and then rechecking and re-torquing if necessary, you're good to go!

The combination of the plastic intake manifold and the gasket seating under hot and cold, expansion and contraction to eventually loosen is obviously what's happening, because the bolts are absolutely not backing out and loosening up, and that's been with just retorquing the bolts, and no thread locker added.

I hope you all are safe and well during this time, God Bless You All! Ry
 

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I checked my bolts as well today after Rys post and my bolts have not moved either, although I only have a few weeks of driving, I am going to monitor mine thru may and then check the torque. I'll post the results at the end of may.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
I checked my bolts as well today after Rys post and my bolts have not moved either, although I only have a few weeks of driving, I am going to monitor mine thru may and then check the torque. I'll post the results at the end of may.
Johnnyreb, I did not realize you had a shaker, do you have to remove the Shaker Scoop to get to those intake manifold bolts? It looks like you would, which makes it a lot more difficult for you to check and re-torque if needed. Seeing as how the Scoop interacts with the hood it is possibly easier for yours to eventually loosen the intake manifold bolts with the engines vibration rubbing against the hood? Ry
 

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Johnnyreb, I did not realize you had a shaker, do you have to remove the Shaker Scoop to get to those intake manifold bolts? It looks like you would, which makes it a lot more difficult for you to check and re-torque if needed. Seeing as how the Scoop interacts with the hood it is possibly easier for yours to eventually loosen the intake manifold bolts with the engines vibration rubbing against the hood? Ry
Actually I can see the bolts with the scoop in place but I have to remove it to check the torque. That's actually a simple job, so no problem. I am curious to see what the torque will be.
 

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I will re-check the torque on mine tomorrow and report tomorrow night. I know it's only April but I'll do it anyway. I am very curious as I have only re-torqued mine once.
 

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Everyone should realize that the actual fix for this is to install a super charger...
 
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Finally got around to checking mine today. All were between 55-70 In/lbs. With just over 8K on the clock. Was surprised that they were all that loose with that low of millage. Haven't driven it yet to see is there is a difference.
 

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I have a question maybe you guys can share light to. I have a 16 charger rt and im doing the 392 manifold swap I got all the parts that are needed for this conversion but out of curiosity I was wondering if Instead of adding the msd box n circut box to activate the runners and set the rpms where the need to be at I was wondering if all that can be done by logging Into ur cars computer and adjusting all that?
 

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I have a question maybe you guys can share light to. I have a 16 charger rt and im doing the 392 manifold swap I got all the parts that are needed for this conversion but out of curiosity I was wondering if Instead of adding the msd box n circut box to activate the runners and set the rpms where the need to be at I was wondering if all that can be done by logging Into ur cars computer and adjusting all that?
To my knowledge, it can be but it needs to be done by a tuner that speaks fluent Mopar. Check with the guys over at Hemifever Tuning and they can set you up. I believe they also might give you some kind of discount for being a ForumZ member also.
 

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Well as usual I am late with the report but here goes. My witness marks are all still in line on my intake bolts, my torque was down an average of 8 inch pounds in approx. 500 miles.

So I would say that we are dealing with a crush issue on the plastic intake. The only other thing I can think of that would cause the change, without moving the bolts, is bolt stretch or threads on the bolts pulling from heat cycling, and that ain't gonna happen on plastic and 210 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
My bolts still have not moved according to the marks but I am not going to test the torque on the bolts since I have already done it 3 times before I put the witness marks on them, as I don't want to risk cracking the plastic. It is obviously not the bolts so IMO it is the gaskets and the intake plastics reaction to hot and cold cycling, but seeing as how I probably started out with approximately 20 inlbs upon discovery of this intake manifold being loose, it should be more than good even if it has loosened a little.
 
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