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SLP Long tube install

3K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  Trimec T56 
#1 ·
In the next couple of days I will be installing Long tubes w/high flow cats and a borla atak exhaust to my car. Is there anyone that has done this already and has any tips or tricks to share? I would like to be prepared and not have to make any trips to the parts store in the middle. Also I thought about shooting a video while I am doing as I have not been able to find any.
 
#4 ·
Have them on the wife’s R/T,and like them alot!
I bought them used,or I would not have wasted my time with the cats unless you need them for visual reasons.You will still need a tune to remove the check engine light for downstream O2 codes.

I used the 6.1 Mopar gaskets and fresh 6.1 hardware.
I did mine in my garage on the floor with jack stands.
Get the car nice and high and well supported as the headers will go in from underneath.
The passenger side is the tough one for sure,I had to unbolt the engine mount from the cradle and jack the engine as high as i could(until it hit the intake hit the cowl),then it will feed in from underneath.

Get a good 10mm gear wrench or 2,and you will need a long 24” extension and 10mm swivel socket 1/4 inch drive is fine,to make life a little easier since you’ll need to reach the hardware from below.

I think the largest pain in the arse was removing the factory heat shields from the stock manifolds!

It took me a solid 6 hours doing it by myself to do the job.If I think of anything else,or you have any questions,ask away!

Heres a clip after,ignore the commentary LOL
Although it did sound amazing(cell phone vid does not do it justice!!)
 
#12 ·
So I finished the install a couple of days ago. So, a couple of admin notes on the instructions that came with the SLP long tubes. It says in the directions that the manifold bolts are 13 mm. Mine were 10. The drivers side manifold came off in about an hour. The passenger side not so much. That one took the better part of 6 hours to take off and put the long tube back on. The passenger side is a major pain in the butt. However I did find a couple things that make it easier. 1) You can remove the two center coil packs. 2) the big black wire loom that runs to fuse box is secured to the fender well by a black push in style grommet. You can pull the grommet out and secure the loom out of the way. This made it easier to get a ratchet wrench or socket in there to get to the bolts. The only ones that gave me real trouble are the 2 inside bolts. All the others I was able to reach with a socket and a few extensions from the bottom. Also the tubes that go after the high flow cats are the same diameter as the cat back x pipe. So I widened the end on one and made a couple of small cuts with a grinder in the center of the pipe to allow me to shrink the other a bit and fit it inside. I am trying to put together my photos to help with the explanation. In the mean time here the finished product. Enjoy!

http://vid246.photobucket.com/albums/gg119/Dtruck96/20160823_182148_zps62jz3pwe.mp4
 
#14 ·
Well I started the install today but got my butt whooped by the passenger side manifold bolts. I have one left. It is the 2nd from the front. Any ideas how to get at this thing? I have heard that possibly raising the engine helps.
Sounds like you got big hands like me LOL...on that side, the brake lines and wire loom from the fuse box is a big problem and you'll find them constantly in the way, to gain those precious thousands of an inch take detailed pics of how your brake lines and looms run around the large black hold down bracket for the fuse box, once these looms and steel lines are loose you'll have enough room to just squeak by the wrench, you will also finally use good few wire ties that you never seem to need when you have them on hand to tightly hold up and out of the way the fuse box, looms, and whatever else you see needing tying out of the way, but way more importantly pay a huge attention to how you will wiggle that large bracket up and out of there, once you know how that bracket slips in and out you're golden on reinstall and gained that extra wrench room...also..feed you hands wheaties cause your hands are gonna need it for those second from the back bolts on their way out..try and use a long straight pry bar type screw driver to get good steady pressure on the inside edge of your open ended wrench to brake it loose. hope this helps good luck
 
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