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So you want to install your own Headers

4K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  trudyc 
#1 ·
Figued since there have been questions I may as well add it here for anyone who needs this info. I am currently in the process of installing the longtubes, as soon as I get some time. If there is a difference I'll add it below. If Ghost doesn't want my JBA's from the charger side then I'll be getting rid of them and possibly the extra O2 extension wires I have.

Got my headers last week and waited till I got some gouge from the forumZ before I did the install. I took some pics as I did the install. The instructions that JBA provided were spot on. I'm going to use their instructions with my added pictures and a little extra input from me on certain parts. Hope this help you all out. Words in italics are my 2$. It took me a while to do it, it was a solo job. I installed the driver side one day (less than 8 hours). Then I installed the passenger side the next day (quicker than the day before). The passenger side was a bit harder with less work area. I'm sure now that I have done it I could do the job in alot less time.

1. Place car on a solid flat area, with plenty of lighting. Wait till the engine cools before working on it. Heat causes metal to expand and make removal of fasteners difficult at best. Disconnect battery cable from battery. Raise front of vehicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use large-base jack stands to support the vehicle. Don't rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent the car from rolling off the jack stands.
I used a lift, and floor jack at the auto hobby shop on base. I lifted the car enough to get under with a creeper. It could easily be done at home with ramps, and a floor jack.
2. Spray WD-40 or some type of penetrating oil on all accessible exhaust manifold flasteners & fittings before attempting to remove them. I didn't do this, it worked out just fine for me.
3. Remove plastic shield from under side of frame. 4 bolts easy day
4. Loosen the exhaust system, apply lubricant to the rubber hangers, slip exhaust off of front exhaust pipes. this is refering to the exhaust from the manifold flanges back. I didn't loosen up anything behind the exhaust manifold.
5. Unplug O2 sensors. Unbolt front exhaust pipes from manifolds. Remove from car. Again skipped this part as it is refering to the O2 sensors behind the Cats.
DRIVERS SIDE:
6. Remove O2 sensor from factory exhaust manifold. I just disconnected the connector and removed the sensor once I got the manifold out. It was a lot easier this way. Dodge did an outstanding job with the quick disconnect connectors, they are the best I have ever dealt with.
7. Remove the two 18mm nuts, & studs attaching the motor to the frame. See pics
7A. Remove the heat shields from the motor mounts. Two bolts.
8. Raise the engine about 1". placed floor jack under tranny and lifted there.
9. Remove the four 15mm headed bolts attaching motor mount bracket to the engine block. Then remove the motor mount. see pics
10. Remove the four10mm nuts from the heat shield on the exhaust manifold.
11. Remove the bolts attaching the manifold to the head. Remove manifold.
12. Scrape carbon build up from head, being careful not to gouge the head surface. there was none on my car at all. I was glad & suprised.
12A. This is where swapping the O2 sensors would be a good idea. It worked out for me. I did it on a bench just fine with this manifold, the passenger I used a vise to hold the manifold and I loosend up the sensor.
13. Install the new JBA (or which ever you are using) header using the supplied gasket and hardware provided. I put 2 starter bolts in to get it set. Then I began installing the rest make sure you use thread lock on all the hardware you install, and don't forget about applying thread lock to the 2 starter bolts. I hand tightened them all in then started using the tools to tighten.
14. Re-install the motor mount. Then lower the engine and re-install studs attaching motor mount to frame.
14A. Re-install the heat shield back onto the motor mount. (why not) the instructions didn't talk about doing this on this side.
15. Install O2 sensor into the header with a carefully placed dab of anti-seize on the threads. I installed the O2 sensor into the header on the bench. It was alot easier doing it this way.
NOTE'S: The driver side was by far the easier side to do, there's more room to play with. The one of the top center bolts was a bit of a pain in the A**. I ended up using a wrech doing 1/4 turns at a time. That one bolt is what made it take so long. The rest I used a ratchet or air ratchet if you have one available. I also didn't try lowering the engine on this side either. It may work out for you.
PASSANGER SIDE:
16. Remove the O2 sensor from the manifold, then remove the two 18mm nuts & studs attaching the motor mount to the frame. I actually tried it and it is easier doing it on the bench. The quick disconnect wasn't too bad getting to, the best way to get to it, is above the engine. I just layed across the engine and reached back behind trans dip stick, once again those quick connects Dodge used were great, If they didn't use those it would be a real pain. remember to loosen up the little twist tie thing so the O2 sensor wire comes out with the manifold too. You can reach it from the bottom, and reuse it, just twist it back together when installing.
17. Remove the two 10mm headed bolts attaching the heat shield to the motor mount bracket. Remove the heat shield.
18. Remove the nut at the rear, and the 15mm bolt at the front of the brace stretching between the motor mount and the alternator bracket. Remove brace. Check out the pics for this. The alt. bolt was pretty tough at first then I took off the plastic guard in front of the wheel and used the extension and the swivel. Came out alot easier then. This bolt was on the tightest of all the bolts I took off.
19. Loosen 10mm nut on the manifold heat shield, and remove Oil Dipstick. Remember to keep one of the heat shield bolts, and the nut. You will need it for the dip stick reinstall. This is what the spacer supplied is used for.
20. Raise the engine about 1"
21. Remove the two bolts attaching the motor mount to the engine bracket. Remove the motor mount.
21A. I installed some of the Header bolts with the engine raised, and lowered. I found that all the manifold bolts were easier to remove with the engine lower, instead of up an inch. So I suggest after you have all the motor mount harware off, try lowering the engine to take off the manifold bolts then raise the engine back up to slide out and in the manifold's.
22. Remove the four 10mm nuts attaching the heat shield to the exhaust manifold. Remove heat shield.
23. Remove the bolts attaching the manifold to the head. Remove manifold. Remember to raise the engine back up if you have it lowered. I slid this out the front opening.
24. Scrape carbon build up from head being careful not to gouge head surface.
25. Install header using gasket and hardware provided, along with an original stud and new spacer at the dipstick bracket position. Install the original stud used for the dip stick last!!!!! The second bolt back is going to be a huge pain. I had the engine raised all the way up to tighten this bolt up. Use a shorter 13mm wremch to tighten it up if you can get one. If you install the dip stick bolt in first it will be even harder if you can do it at all. You will only get like 1/4 turn at a time. I made the mistake of installing the dipstick bolt in first and ended up taking it out just so I could have room to turn the wrench.
26. Re-install motor mount. Lower engine, re-install studs attaching motor mount to frame.
27. Re-install dipstick, using an original nut. you can do this before the motor mount probably easier if you do I did.
28. Re-install the brace connecting the alternator bracket to the motor mount. Install the heat shield.
29. Install the O2 sensor.
29A. I used the heat shield on the passenger side at the end of the manifold flange on the header install too. This heat shield is to help protect the starter. Heat is a starter killer, I suggest using it. The 3 grams of weight it is is not going to harm your 1/4 time I promise.
EXHAUST:
30. Apply a small amount of O2 sensor safe, hi-temp RTV Silicone sealer to the flared area of the exhaust pipe.
31. Install the front exhaust pipes using the hardware provided. Re-connect the lower O2 sensors.
32. Re-connect the exhaust system to the front exhaust pipes. Align and tighten securly.
33. Re-check everything
34. Start engine, check for leaks.
35. Replace plastic shield.
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#9 ·
Member Friendoffur did a detailed write up with pictures on installing shorty headers, a search of the forum should find it. You could also shoot him a PM and he could probably give you a good indication as to how long it takes.
 
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