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I installed a Solo Mach X-6 (square tips) on my 19000 mile 3 year old Challenger. I wanted to do this job before the fasteners and pipes were all one solid mass. Amazing how I forget how difficult this type of project is. Here are some observations of my install for anyone that may see this post in the future.
1- The rubber hangers are very tough to get off even with soapy water. Large Channel Lock pliers are helpful and needed.
2- Reattaching the 2 rubber hangers in front of the diff to the new forward muffler assembly requires that the right side be installed first then a long thin screwdriver is needed to pry the left hanger onto the left pin. Once started it will slip into place.
3- The 4 hangers fore and aft of the resonators are attached to the under body by screws (13mm socket). It is best to remove them from the car then transfer the rubber and hanger to the new parts later.
4- The front pipe clamps are spot welded to the stock pipes. Just loosen the bolts and pry the clamp open but don't attempt to remove.
5- During removal of the forward muffler section/right tailpipe assembly, do not allow the assembly to hang from the cat pipes. It will not come off. The tail pipe can be supported by a jack stand and then the assembly can be twisted and pulled back until it falls off.
6- The cat pipes are bolted to a small bracket. If the new pipes do not line up one bolt can be loosened to allow the pipe to find its new center. Mine was 3/16" off but once I loosed the bolt it slipped together easily. The nut is 17mm and the bolt head is 15mm.
7- Tightening the band clamps with a Harbor Freight electric impact gun made that part of the job simple.
8- The fasteners supplied appear to be standard zinc plated steel. I may change them out to stainless later.
The Solo system is quite a bit lighter that the stock system. I was worn out after I got done so I fired it up just enough to get off the ramps and put everything away. Sounds good. I'll get to really run it on Monday.
1- The rubber hangers are very tough to get off even with soapy water. Large Channel Lock pliers are helpful and needed.
2- Reattaching the 2 rubber hangers in front of the diff to the new forward muffler assembly requires that the right side be installed first then a long thin screwdriver is needed to pry the left hanger onto the left pin. Once started it will slip into place.
3- The 4 hangers fore and aft of the resonators are attached to the under body by screws (13mm socket). It is best to remove them from the car then transfer the rubber and hanger to the new parts later.
4- The front pipe clamps are spot welded to the stock pipes. Just loosen the bolts and pry the clamp open but don't attempt to remove.
5- During removal of the forward muffler section/right tailpipe assembly, do not allow the assembly to hang from the cat pipes. It will not come off. The tail pipe can be supported by a jack stand and then the assembly can be twisted and pulled back until it falls off.
6- The cat pipes are bolted to a small bracket. If the new pipes do not line up one bolt can be loosened to allow the pipe to find its new center. Mine was 3/16" off but once I loosed the bolt it slipped together easily. The nut is 17mm and the bolt head is 15mm.
7- Tightening the band clamps with a Harbor Freight electric impact gun made that part of the job simple.
8- The fasteners supplied appear to be standard zinc plated steel. I may change them out to stainless later.
The Solo system is quite a bit lighter that the stock system. I was worn out after I got done so I fired it up just enough to get off the ramps and put everything away. Sounds good. I'll get to really run it on Monday.
