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Discussion Starter #1
Can i get the launch control that the SRT has in my RT classic ? I heard that the system tells the driver if you are straight and on flat surface which helps on take off, and also not sure how it does it but the system allows good launch without peeling out.
 

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I never heard of anyone doing that kind of a mod and i dont know if it can be done with out any major headaches.
 

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2013 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic
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You have to consider why Chrysler does not offer launch control as an option to 5.7L Hemi owners. There's obviously money to be made there, with the 5.7L crowd arguably being the largest pool of Hemi owners. If the market is there and there were no technological limitations, it's hard to imagine that Chrysler would seal off that market.
 

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Launch control would be a tough retro fit on an R/T and I don't really think it would be worth it. You can learn to launch your car hard yourself through practice, just leave traction control on and roll into the throttle at that fine line before your tires break loose.

Launch control on the SRT (which I currently have) holds your rpms (on the automatic) at around 1,825 rpms while you hold the gas to the floor. When ready you release the brake and the car uses it's various control systems to help you accelerate without spinning or spinning much. I haven't seen anything that says it tells you if you are on the level or straight. In fact it says in the instructions to make sure you are on a level surface and have the car pointing straight.

I haven't tried mine out at the track yet so I'll have to see for myself eventually how well it works. However I have seen a few reports where guys tried it at the track but didn't get as good of times as they were able to achieve on their own.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for that info.

70baracuda,

I was actually test driving fully loaded SRT 13 at the time i was thinking of trading in my RT, and the salesman was doing his best to sell me on it. He was the one that showed me in the configuration like how u mentioned on launch control, just hold the gas and the car would be at a certain RPM before take off. Well he also showed me a display of all 4 tires on the screen, and if i am not mistaken, he did mention that you can adjust your front tires so that they are pointing straight, and it will let you know if your uphill, downhill, or flat surface. I think that setting was in track mode instead of launch, not sure. Maybe he was just dealing me but oh well.

Couple of questions i have...

1. Would it be benefit to hold the gas around 1825 RPM and hold the breaks, basically reving it up a little before take off since that feature is on the SRT ? Maybe i can just try that without that feature, and just roll into the throttle ? Is there a real benefit on revving the engine before take off for an Automatic ? I always thought about this because i see some cars doing it and i hear its not worth it, and just take off.

2. What is the proper way on smoking out your tires on the street and at the track? I have never been on the track and i plan on going there, my backs will have drag radials, and my fronts will be street tires. When going over the water puddle, is that what it is to burn out your tires ? Do you go around it because you don't want to get your front street tires wet, and then reverse so your backs get on it ?

Is it just hold your break and floor the gas pedal ? My engine for some reason, when i do this it will get loud like it should and all of a sudden, it will stall and bring it back down. Not sure if that is a setting .
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
also found this link on it that talk about straightening out your car...

http://www.drivesrt.com/news/2013/08/a-launch-control-primer-with-srt-engineer-marty-jagoda.html


Q: While behind the wheel, how does the driver engage launch control?

A: “With a couple pushes of a button on the center cluster. The first push from the ESC button puts the driver in partial. A second push puts them in launch control mode and it will say launch control is active on the cluster. There are also a few other things it will remind the driver of, such as if the steering wheel is not straight, or if the car is on too much of an angle, either lateral or longitudinal angle surface. More than five degrees of lateral or longitudinal incline, and the system will deactivate. It’s probably not ideal to do a launch control in that instance, so the system will not let drivers perform a launch”

Q: Is there a noticeable difference between how launch control functions on the automatic transmission versus the manual?

A: “The automatic transmission version is a little different, since you are missing one pedal in the car. The way you enter the mode is still the same. You’ll get the same messaging, straighten your wheel and make sure the car is on flat ground. It will also tell you to apply the throttle and put your foot on the brake. It’s looking for 30-bar brake pressure at the booster, that’s how it knows you are in a launch control event. By the way, 30 bars is not a lot of pressure. We wanted to keep it as low as possible just for robustness of this feature. You put your right foot on the accelerator and put it to the floor and it will rev to 1,825 rpm and hold your rpm right there. You’ll be two feet in on it, get your foot off the left pedal as fast as you can and the car goes.”
 

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Just me but sooner or later the costs of having all the electrical tech will expensive . I prefer the K.I.S.S. method and do it myself .
Do I need something to tell me my tires are straight no while you looking at displays trying to get thing perfect the other guy is setup and ready to race. Most tracks will limit your time at the tree.
Streets well besides the fact that it is illegal and if caught say goodbye to your car in many states now . If you dont know what you are doing (trust me if all you know about street racing is from watching Street Outlaws you will be lost ) it will be a hard fast learning curve dont have thin skin. You flat out aren't going to have the time to play and the others around will tell you to get off the pot and race. Just to say The streets are NOT the Place to learn .

Think I am kidding go google yellow bullet.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just me but sooner or later the costs of having all the electrical tech will expensive . I prefer the K.I.S.S. method and do it myself .
Do I need something to tell me my tires are straight no while you looking at displays trying to get thing perfect the other guy is setup and ready to race. Most tracks will limit your time at the tree.
Streets well besides the fact that it is illegal and if caught say goodbye to your car in many states now . If you dont know what you are doing (trust me if all you know about street racing is from watching Street Outlaws you will be lost ) it will be a hard fast learning curve dont have thin skin. You flat out aren't going to have the time to play and the others around will tell you to get off the pot and race. Just to say The streets are NOT the Place to learn .

Think I am kidding go google yellow bullet.
thanks for your 2 cents, i do however feel the SRT launch control feature is cool in theory.
 

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Thank you for that info.

70baracuda,

I was actually test driving fully loaded SRT 13 at the time i was thinking of trading in my RT, and the salesman was doing his best to sell me on it. He was the one that showed me in the configuration like how u mentioned on launch control, just hold the gas and the car would be at a certain RPM before take off. Well he also showed me a display of all 4 tires on the screen, and if i am not mistaken, he did mention that you can adjust your front tires so that they are pointing straight, and it will let you know if your uphill, downhill, or flat surface. I think that setting was in track mode instead of launch, not sure. Maybe he was just dealing me but oh well.

That could be as I have an SRT Core which doesn't have track mode, just sport mode.

Couple of questions i have...

1. Would it be benefit to hold the gas around 1825 RPM and hold the breaks, basically reving it up a little before take off since that feature is on the SRT ? Maybe i can just try that without that feature, and just roll into the throttle ? Is there a real benefit on revving the engine before take off for an Automatic ? I always thought about this because i see some cars doing it and i hear its not worth it, and just take off.

When I was racing my R/T at the track my best launches with street tires came from just launching from around 1,100 rpms. Put one foot on the brake then bring the rpms up just a tad then roll into the throttle. If you have a drag strip located anywhere near you go on a tune and test day and make a good number of passes, you will no doubt very quickly get the feel for launching your car.

2. What is the proper way on smoking out your tires on the street and at the track? I have never been on the track and i plan on going there, my backs will have drag radials, and my fronts will be street tires. When going over the water puddle, is that what it is to burn out your tires ? Do you go around it because you don't want to get your front street tires wet, and then reverse so your backs get on it ?

If you are running street tires, you go around the water, if you are running drag radials you will roll through. With drag radials on after you go through the water you will brake with your left foot then bring the rpms up until you start spinning. You want to get the tires to smoking a bit then kind of ease off the brake and the gas and pull forward a bit. There should be a guy standing there giving you directions and will signal you as to when to do your burn out and when to pull forward to the light.

When you get to the track if you don't know how to do something don't hesitate to ask your fellow racers in the pits and the staging lanes, everyone has a first time at this and most people are going to be helpful. Also the guys working the tree and launch area will help direct you so follow what they are signaling and telling you to do.


Is it just hold your break and floor the gas pedal ? My engine for some reason, when i do this it will get loud like it should and all of a sudden, it will stall and bring it back down. Not sure if that is a setting .
Most likely traction control kicking in or possibly limp mode entering into play. In order to do a good burnout you need to turn traction control off. If you are running drag radials you should turn traction control off before doing your burn out. If street tires, skip the burnout and leave TC on, then launch just above idle rolling into the throttle. With drag radials if you heated them up good you will just mash the throttle when you launch.
 
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A couple other tips for your first time at the drag strip. Watch a few people go before you go get in line. Look to see how things are done by others and the process at that track for staging and racing, it should help you with what to expect when it's your turn.

Reaction time: if you wait for the light to turn green you generally have already lost the race. It takes roughly a half second for your brain to process that it is seeing a green light and for your foot and car to take action. Therefore if you want to cut a good light you need to leave on the last yellow. There are generally three yellow lights before the green one comes on each light up a half second apart. You car can't launch before the green or of course you red light and would be disqualified from that race, if it was an actual race and not a tune and test day. By leaving on the last yellow light you won't actually break out of the beams until the light has turned green for the reasons I mentioned previously.

Don't necessarily worry about this on your first couple of passes as it isn't particularly important for tune and test day. However it is something to keep in mind if you want to cut a good reaction time. Also everyone's reaction time is a bit different so you will have to play around with the exact moment to go once you get launching your car figured out.

Most importantly is to have a good time at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
thanks 70barcuda, great info !!

You mentioned....
If you are running street tires, you go around the water, if you are running drag radials you will roll through. With drag radials on after you go through the water you will brake with your left foot then bring the rpms up until you start spinning.
What if i have street tires front and drags on the back? I would basically go around the around so the fronts to hit the water and back in the water so my rear tires touch right ?

Most likely traction control kicking in or possibly limp mode entering into play. In order to do a good burnout you need to turn traction control off. If you are running drag radials you should turn traction control off before doing your burn out. If street tires, skip the burnout and leave TC on, then launch just above idle rolling into the throttle. With drag radials if you heated them up good you will just mash the throttle when you launch.
if i have drag radials, when i turn off TC before burnout, do you turn it back on for the race ? Also, should i rev my engine up 1,100 RPM on drag radials or only on street tires before take off ?

Thanks again 70barcuda for helping me out. :smileup:
 

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thanks 70barcuda, great info !!

You mentioned....


What if i have street tires front and drags on the back? I would basically go around the around so the fronts to hit the water and back in the water so my rear tires touch right ?

Somewhat depends on the track, at most tracks you will just roll through and not worry too much about the front tires. However at the one track where I race they actually have you back into the water then pull forward so your front tires never get into the water. You will have to watch and see what is being done at your track. Most tracks though will have you just drive through it.


if i have drag radials, when i turn off TC before burnout, do you turn it back on for the race ? Also, should i rev my engine up 1,100 RPM on drag radials or only on street tires before take off ?

If I'm running drag radials I leave traction control off for the entire run. With street tires I leave it on for the entire process, at least that seem to work best for me.


Thanks again 70barcuda for helping me out. :smileup:


With my R/T I found for both street tires and drag radials that my launch was best from just above idle. If running drag radials when you mash the throttle your converter will flash to a higher stall before leaving, so it will be the same as launching from roughly 1,800 - 2,000 rpms. That is the car won't actually be set in motion until it hits that point (unlike if you roll into the throttle). The flash stall seems to work better for me than if I foot stall the converter (that is foot brake to a higher rpm level).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
70barcuda,

When your at the track, on an average how many runs do you get in, obviously its how busy the track is but i was wondering, do you smoke your tires before every run?

Doesnt the rubber or compound come off your tires if you smoke them too much resulting in tire damage ? Do drag radials have better compound or can absorb rubber smoke better than street tires ?
 

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70barcuda,

When your at the track, on an average how many runs do you get in, obviously its how busy the track is but i was wondering, do you smoke your tires before every run?

Doesnt the rubber or compound come off your tires if you smoke them too much resulting in tire damage ? Do drag radials have better compound or can absorb rubber smoke better than street tires ?
I do most of my racing at two different tracks, the one is almost never crowded and I typically make from 15-22 passes and could easily do more if I wanted to. The other track usually is much more croweded and 8-12 runs is a more typical tune and test.

When I run drag radials I do a burn out every time and yes you will end up with a lot of rubber compound in your wheel wells and on your rear quarters. However, drag radials are designed for that, you have to heat them up to make them sticky that's how they work.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I do most of my racing at two different tracks, the one is almost never crowded and I typically make from 15-22 passes and could easily do more if I wanted to. The other track usually is much more croweded and 8-12 runs is a more typical tune and test.

When I run drag radials I do a burn out every time and yes you will end up with a lot of rubber compound in your wheel wells and on your rear quarters. However, drag radials are designed for that, you have to heat them up to make them sticky that's how they work.
is the rubber on the drag radials different than the street tires? Can the drag radials take more burn outs than street tires ?
 

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is the rubber on the drag radials different than the street tires? Can the drag radials take more burn outs than street tires ?
It's made of a much softer compound, when you heat them up the surface become extremely sticky.
 
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