Dodge Challenger Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How can i tell the temperature on the track and temperature on my tires? Reason i ask it's because MT tires need certain degrees on the tire ...

Mickey Thompson suggests the tires be heated to within 15 degrees of the track temperature.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
Good question. Can't say I've ever measured my tire temps and track temps. I've had no issues hooking at the track in my Nova with M/T's just doing a nice 3-5 second burnout to heat the tires up and get them sticky.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cdahl383 - Did you use MT ET Street Radial II ?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
I have M/T ET Street Radial's on my Nova. The ones I have are for old school cars with smaller rims like 15" and the II's like you have are for lower profile tires with larger rims for brake clearance with larger rotors/calipers.

Both are made of R2 rubber compound according to M/T's website.

If you're just going to the track to make some passes and see what it'll do, I don't know that you really need to get that into it measuring track temps and tire temps, etc. I would think a nice short burnout to heat the tires up good should be all you need.

I've seen guys with 10 second cars just doing short regular burnouts and then dead hooking off the line on a well prepped track.

I know guys that are heavy into racing that bracket race do all that stuff, check the DA, air temp, adjust their carbs and tune accordingly, etc. But for just test n tune and making some passes for fun you really don't have to bother with all that IMO.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Guess your right brother, I'm just looking for passes... I was gonna try 12 psi tire settings on 1 run , 16 psi on next run, and 20 psi on 3rd run. Guess I just wanted my tires temp sane for all 3 psi settings ..
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
I'd check around and see what other guys running those tires run at the track. 12psi seems awfully low for a drag radial tire. Slicks that are bias ply are typically run that low but I've had good luck running between 16-19psi on my drag radials at the track. But I'm running the M/T ET Street Radials, not the II's that you have, and I'm running 15" wheels, not 20" wheels. So there could be some differences there in what works best. Your car is also about 4200 lbs vs mine being 3400 lbs.

I would try 19-20psi first, see how it goes, if it spins a lot, drop it down a couple psi, try again, etc. You want to have the highest tire pressure you can get while still getting traction, otherwise too low and you just create more rolling resistance for your car to overcome all the way down the track.

If it's your first time going down the track, I would just make a pass at about 3/4 throttle or so, just to get the hang of things, where the turnoffs are, what the car feels like going down the track, etc. Then make a few passes at full throttle and see what you can do. Then once you get that down, start working on your launch, messing with tire pressure, shift points, what lane is best, etc. Seat time is key to lowering your ET.

Make sure you bring a helmet and have some fun! :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the tips brother. Ya i called MT and one of their techs asked me what kind of car i have and size tires, and he told me to go from 12 PSI - 20 PSI , starting at 16 PSI.

But like you said, its all about passes and see what works best. I have never been to the track.

Where are the turnoffs ? I was hoping i can test how my car launches before i actually prestage or stage so i know how much throttle i can go with very little slip. Can i test this on normal street or somewhere at the track before staging ?

Ya on pressure i will see what works best but on shift points, since its automatic, i was either just going to put it on auto stick and let it shift for me at max speed per gear, right before redline.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
I've found it easier to start with more pressure and then just let more air out later. Takes less time to let air out than go to the pumps and air them up, etc. Doesn't really matter though, whatever works best for you. I would think somewhere in the 16-20psi range would be good though. Maybe 12 psi would work but I would start higher than that and work down if you want to try it.

You can practice launching on the street somewhere with little traffic, etc. But honestly, that won't replicate what the track will be like. At the track, they put down a lot of traction bite stuff (VHT, etc) so your car will hook better there than at the track. Also, typically on test n tune nights they apply less traction bite than on days where they have serious racers there, such as a Sunday with bracket racing, etc. My car hooks great on Sundays at my track, but I had a hard time on Wednesday test n tune last time.

Make sure you bring a helmet, you'll most likely run faster than 13.99. I'm guessing you might be in the 12's at first with poor 60ft times until you get the hang of it and then get into the 11's somewhere, maybe mid/high 11's if everything is right and you hook up good, otherwise low/mid 12's if you can't hook good off the line. There are a couple other guys on here with superchargers on their 5.7L R/T's and they're in the low 12's with 1.8 60ft times and they believe they have more in it still.

The turnoffs are at the end of the track. At my track there are two. I always use the last one, no point in wearing out your brakes. I believe the first one is for slower cars or 1/8 mile cars anyway. If you're on the lane furthest from the turnoff, it's polite to let the other racer turnoff first, even if you're way ahead of him.

For launching, don't worry too much about reaction time if you're just going to make some passes. Just leave when you see the third yellow, that will get you a pretty good reaction time by default. If you wait until you see the green you'll have a bad reaction time guaranteed.

I would just leave it in Drive the first few passes just to get the hang of the whole process. One less thing to think about as you get used to everything. Then shifting with autostick will probably net you the best ET once you get some practice.

The main thing is to just go and make some passes, get some seat time, get the process figured out, talk to some people in the pits and staging lanes as they'll help you out if you tell them you're new to the scene, and just have fun. You'll find it's addicting and you'll want to go back again and try new things out to see how low of an ET you can get. It's a lot of fun!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
Here's a video of my last run in October in my Nova before the track closed for the year to give you an idea of what it's like.

This was a test n tune night, so the track wasn't prepped that well. You can hear I'm spinning a little off the line. I still got a 1.88 60ft time but I should really be in the 1.7's if everything was right.

You can see I just did a quick burnout to clean the tires off and heat them up a little. I probably could have done a little longer one but I don't have line lock on my car so it started moving on me and I let up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luPj5eNXJMI
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks cdahl383 for taking the time to respond on here, and that was a nice run. Was that full throttle ? Also, the water puddle, if im gonna have street tires in front and drag radials on back, when i come up to the staging point, should i go around the water and just back in so just my rear tires get on it and not my front ?

Its funny because to me i always thought water would make the tire slip more but not in this case.

Also not sure on other year challengers, but the autostick shifts the gears at the highest top speed for each gear which is nice so i don't have to miss a shift but ya your right i will make passes on regular drive mode first just to see how that plays out.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,773 Posts
Part of being consistent for regular racers is reading track and tire temps. When I ran NHRA regular I did. It takes a staging crew to help. You get a infrared thermometer gun where you shoot the track and the tires. Once you find the temp and air pressure that works best, you have a guy on each rear tire. After your burn out they will check tire temp and pressure before you stage and make adjustments as needed to pressure and will hold you until temp is right before you stage. None of us who go occasionaly to the track need this.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Get one of these , I have used it for years, I do more road course racing and it builds and immense amount of heat on the brakes, so I use this regularly ,and it will also check exhaust, header temps as well as tire temps,I also use it on the grill so I know exactly how hot it is

http://www.cyronix.com/temperature_sensor_raytek.htm
Which one exactly do you recommend for tire temp check ?

Not sure i will buy it for now but just incase in the future i get into racing, lol.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
Yep that was all she had. I'm hoping for 12.20's next year with recurving my distributor and putting a double pumper carb on it. We'll see.

If you watch the beginning of my video you'll see me drive around the waterbox, then back my rear tires into it, then pull forward a little, then do a short burnout. The guy that works there helps you line the car up right, tells you when to stop in the burnout box, how far to pull forward, etc. Just follow him and he'll guide you. I have street tires up front as well and didn't want water dripping off of my front tires onto the track.

I agree with williamsrt, you can really get into it and buy all the equipment and bring some people with you to measure the tire temp, track temp, DA, and all that sort of stuff, but it's kind of overkill for just a fun test n tune session and making a few passes to see what you can do.

That infrared gun is cool!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·

· Premium Member
Joined
·
470 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
473 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
thanks guys, i guess i can't come out my car when i do the burnout to check my tire temp at the track ? lol Guess im gonna just do it on the street when nobody around.

I did have a question about Focus Spot Size and Distance , the one im getting is 1" @ 8"

Is the 1" , are they talking about the red dot is 1" ? And am i supposed to be 8" away from that dot to get an accurate readings ?

If thats what it means, can i get close to get better reading ?
 

· Senior Member
Joined
·
13,001 Posts
thanks guys, i guess i can't come out my car when i do the burnout to check my tire temp at the track ? lol Guess im gonna just do it on the street when nobody around.

You should get yourself a staging crew when you go to the track to help you do it the right way.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13,190 Posts
If you're going to go through all the bother of reading tire and track temps you might as well bring a crew with you like Dodge boy suggested. If you read your tire temps on the street that's fine, but how will you check it on the track? Not much use then. Bring a friend or two with you so they can check it for you.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top