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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought my second Challenger RT end of August last year. I had an 09 RT auto, but this time I bought a redline with a six speed.
From day one it had a tapping noise under accel and decel . Took it back to the dealer where they told me it wasn't a noise. I said it was, we agreed that we would re-evaluate it on the first oil change (note, round trip to the dealer is 2-3 hours due to CA traffic).
Took it back for the oil change and they confirmed there was a noise, but asked me to bring it back after Christmas (it was two weeks before) so they could research it.
Took it back, they claimed some service bulletin on a non-secure holder--I honestly forget what it was as I knew it wouldn't fix it. They called to tell me my car was done and I asked if they drove it. Um uh um er ah.... so they call back in an hour to te3ll me my car is not done. Then I get a call that they need to change a part, a rocker guide. They call to tell me its done, I ask again if they drove it. I get a call back to let me know they have decided they need to put a rigfht side head on my car, but its backordered for at least three weeks, might as well pick up my car. I ask if they are sure its the right side, they place me on hold and then say they will do both heads
I take them the car two weeks later and they put in heads. I ask if they changed the oil after that... they say why? I complain to the svc manager and he finally agrees it might be a good idea.
Pick my car up, same noise is still there.
I call dodge, they escalate me up the customer service chain and ask that I take it to another dealer.
I do. They send a mechanic on a ride with me, he hears the noise. Asks me to bring it back the next week. I do. I get a call the next day my car is done. I ask what they did. Nothing. We had a Chrysler engineer here andf he says its normal.I explode. Back on the phone with dodge corporate and they are digging in on a solution.
Amazing how many lies, and unskilled mechanics I have dealt with. I miss my perfect 09
 

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So I bought my second Challenger RT end of August last year. I had an 09 RT auto, but this time I bought a redline with a six speed.
From day one it had a tapping noise under accel and decel . Took it back to the dealer where they told me it wasn't a noise. I said it was, we agreed that we would re-evaluate it on the first oil change (note, round trip to the dealer is 2-3 hours due to CA traffic).
Took it back for the oil change and they confirmed there was a noise, but asked me to bring it back after Christmas (it was two weeks before) so they could research it.
Took it back, they claimed some service bulletin on a non-secure holder--I honestly forget what it was as I knew it wouldn't fix it. They called to tell me my car was done and I asked if they drove it. Um uh um er ah.... so they call back in an hour to te3ll me my car is not done. Then I get a call that they need to change a part, a rocker guide. They call to tell me its done, I ask again if they drove it. I get a call back to let me know they have decided they need to put a rigfht side head on my car, but its backordered for at least three weeks, might as well pick up my car. I ask if they are sure its the right side, they place me on hold and then say they will do both heads
I take them the car two weeks later and they put in heads. I ask if they changed the oil after that... they say why? I complain to the svc manager and he finally agrees it might be a good idea.
Pick my car up, same noise is still there.
I call dodge, they escalate me up the customer service chain and ask that I take it to another dealer.
I do. They send a mechanic on a ride with me, he hears the noise. Asks me to bring it back the next week. I do. I get a call the next day my car is done. I ask what they did. Nothing. We had a Chrysler engineer here andf he says its normal.I explode. Back on the phone with dodge corporate and they are digging in on a solution.
Amazing how many lies, and unskilled mechanics I have dealt with. I miss my perfect 09
I had a hunch this story was going to a "that's just normal" line somewhere.:shakehead: Most times they can get away with that but for the ones like you and me that have already had one WITHOUT the tic....it's alot harder line to sell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And my point with them now is, if it is, in fact, normal, why did your dealer change both head assemblies?
I will push this issue hard with them
 

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My R/T does not tick either. But for a few months, a friend of mine whom has been a Dodge/Chrysler dealer mechanic for more than 30 years has been trying to verify a change or design improvement of the roller lifters that happened sometime in May of 2013.
If I were dealing with GM, I could have found out the last time Zora Argus Duntov brushed his teeth. With Chrysler, you can't get them to tell you if it's day or night outside.
Without the right info, and verified, all is just speculation. This blows!

-John
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Perhaps one of the most frustrating things I have ever dealt with. They just want me to be quiet, unlike my engine:D
 

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JMHO, but your going to continue to have issues. Your car has already been screwed with enough. If it were me, it would be back at 'another' dealership while I went and picked out a 2014 and left the ticking engine [thrown parts at it] right there on the lot. Get rid of the headache before you suffer any longer. The pros out-way the cons for parting with it.
 

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If this is NORMAL....how come my R/T doesn't tick??????
You need to get your R/T to the dealer and insist they install that tick! :D

I had a bit of the tick when first starting my car, but it would go away after the engine had warmed up. After switching to synthetic oil last month, I don't hear it at all now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I won't be "giving it back" unless I win the battle with dodge NC its on their dime

I will check for the build date today
 

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That is a shame that you are getting the run around on this "ticking" problem especially after two dealers have put their hands on your engine. Maybe the dealer should subcontract your car to a local certified engine builder to have it repaired. I only say this because of the incompetence you have illustrated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What? The technicians at Dodge are not engine builders????? :). I am shocked....

Actually part of my fight with them is going to include sending them to this site so they can see just how many people have gone through this and are vocal about it--and suggestions on how to make it go away
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also... build date on my car was 7/2013
 

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Just a tid bit of info , I have a friend that drives a Colorado State patrol charger with the 5.7 hemi , the car gets leaned on alot to say the least up and down the mountain several times a day ,and the thing ticks like a time bomb, over 200 k on the engine and still works, mine to is a bit tickey after start up and I plan on changing the oil to a bit heavier synthetic
 

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Just a tid bit of info , I have a friend that drives a Colorado State patrol charger with the 5.7 hemi , the car gets leaned on alot to say the least up and down the mountain several times a day ,and the thing ticks like a time bomb, over 200 k on the engine and still works, mine to is a bit tickey after start up and I plan on changing the oil to a bit heavier synthetic
Where you could probably get away with useing "a bit" heaver oil even though the factory says not to if you had a 6-speed that doesn't have the MDS....there is no way I would do that on an auto car if it was mine.:SHOCKED:
 

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Where you could probably get away with useing "a bit" heaver oil even though the factory says not to if you had a 6-speed that doesn't have the MDS....there is no way I would do that on an auto car if it was mine.:SHOCKED:

X2. Switching to fully synthetic is fine but you shouldn't go to a heavier weight oil.
 

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Ok I know this the tolerances on these engines are the same as my 440 and I use 20/50 on that .

I might plan on using as my local Mopar engine builders suggestion (HE HAD THE SAME NOISY ENGINE TOO) uses Rotella 15/40 with STP, noise is gone and they have 12 k miles on it and no issues .

I may go with a 5/40 ,but to keep the MDS working I will probably go with a good synthetic 5/30

I really dont trust having 5 /20 seems pretty thin to me,and roaming the interweb people are using alot of different weights

"The change in recommendation to 5W-40 was because Pennzoil didn't have a 0W-40 synthetic at the time. Business/politics recommendation, not based on technical information."

I think the thin oil is for gas mileage , and IMO the thin oil will eventually wear out the engine faster, just my own thoughts :smileup:
 

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This is a copy and paste off another forum I'm not allowed to link to
Just to give you an idea on how sensitive the MDS system is....I use 5w-30 because I tried to rid the Hemi tick and ONLY because I have the MDS turned of via handheld tuner and the dealer showed me the diagnostic code report when i went in for service on my Instrument cluster. It showed a stored DTC code for incorrect oil weight that only shows up on the Dealers tuner.
Use ONLY 5w-20, 5w-20 or your mds will not function properly and your dealer will know you have the incorrect oil type.
Brand doesn't matter, nor does Synthetic or conventional. 5w-20 is 5w-20 regardless what anyone says. Oil is rated by Viscosity and is how it gets labeled it's weight.
 

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If you go on the internet and look....the whole MDS must have a 20 weight oil is everywhere!!! Many a story of MDS problems after trying a 30 or up if you look. By the way....I've never heard of a 440 with MDS unless you are talking about a stroked 5.7 or 392. Anyhow...Just one more that I'm not allowed to link to....and I'm outa here.
Originally Posted by terracedean
my 08 1500 manual says to use 5w-20 cause of the mds? but would it be that bad if i just used 5w-30, would it affect anything, and dont tell me whatever the manual says do it, cause i know that haha. but i thought id ask?
Yes, using anything but a 20 weight can be a problem mechanically on 5.7L MDS equipped vehicles. MDS actually operates in part using oil pressure and it is very important that you have the correct weight oil to do so. You can run a 0W-20 or a 5W-20 but the 20 is the important part( both will be 20 weight at operating temp which is what really matters ).

On MDS equipped 5.7L's when the computer goes into MDS mode the MDS solenoids open allowing high pressure oil to travel through special oil galleries to the lifters. There is a pin in the lifter that gets "pressed" by the high pressure oil flow. Once the pin is "pressed" it allows the lifter to collapse on itself rather than stay solid. You need a 20 weight for this to operate properly.

There is a lost motion spring inside the lifter that keeps it in proper contact with the cam and the push rod in contact with the rocker arm so nothing is loose but it isn't strong enough to keep the lifter rigid. So on the cam upstroke the lifter collapses on itself and doesn't raise up but it does remain in contact with the push rod. Because the lifter does not raise up with the cam the push rod doesn't raise up either so the rocker does not push down opening the valve.

The computer kills fuel and spark to the deactivated cylinders when MDS kicks in. As I understand it the intake valve never opens so no air is taken in. I believe the exhaust valve does open however to help make sure the cylinder is purged each cycle but I am not 100% sure on that.

There is more to MDS than just the part the lifters play but they are a crucial part of it all and for them to operate properly it requires a 20 weight oil. Hope this helps out.
 
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