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2022 Challenger T/A 5.7, M6
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've ordered the R/T, 6MT with the T/A package, performance handling group, and a few other things. I'd like to get the car into the 12 second bracket. NA, how much would be needed to get it there? I know it's only a few hundredths of a second. Would an Intake Manifold, headers, Cam and a tune do it? Or, will I need to go further? I'm familiar with older performance, but this newer stuff is much less intuitive to me.

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Weight...weight...weight.

Lighter front end, smaller wheels, lighter hood...seat removal...door panel removal...dash removal....carpet removal...Weight is your enemy.

Have your 95# girlfriend drive the car. Girls do great in drag racing because they weigh less and have better reaction times because their brain is closer to their arms/legs(also why, generally, Air Force pilots are not usually tall).

Don't have a 95# girlfriend? Why would you buy a Challenger if you can't get a 95# girl to whisper sweet nothings into your ear...or in my case, sweet somethings.
 

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There have been people on this board that have gotten in the 12’s with a stock 5.7, just barely. This is done at sea level on cool days. Weight will help but you don’t really probably get radical, take the spare tire and Jack out if it has one, rear seats, passenger seats and less than half a tank of fuel. Drag radials will also help. If that doesn’t get you there a tuner would be next. The best way to get in the 12’s would be a 6.4 engine.
 

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2015 R/T 5.7L A8
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So far all bolt on upgrades and have not been into the engine it is a 2015 5.7L A8 and it was 48 degrees that day, but nothing was removed from the trunk and it had a full tank of gas. My mods are listed in the profile About. :) Ry

Edit: Got almost zero tire spin off the line that day, tires spinning has everything to do with a good time, the more they spin and loose grip the worse your time. Tires are very important!
 

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Big difference between the 8 spd autos and the 6 spd manual - a lot easier with the 8 spd auto to do it but it can be done. For one thing - there's more gears which keeps the engine in a more favorable RPM range for a longer period, and secondly, a human can't shift as fast as a computer.

I haven't done any tracking since I moved to Michigan 6 1/2 years ago, but my typical runs used to be 12.8 to 12.9 - I did a couple 12.7s - once at Cayuga in early Oct - upper 60s temps, and once at Empire Dragway - my former home track - in Western NY- which was NOT sea level - it's about 1100 ft elevation as I recall. My best was at ATCO in NJ - 12.6 at 110 that was my first run of the day and I launched conservative too - unfortunately it was a very busy day, lots of breakdowns and dudes with imports oiling the track, and I didn't get another daytime run while the track was sticky from sunshine - I know I had a 12.5 on tap that day. :(

You need drag radials with a manual - primarily because it eliminates wheel hop at the higher launch RPMs you need to hit 12s. I would typically launch at about 3500-3800 RPM. On 20 inch street tires you'd probably be hopping badly. And you don't side step the clutch or anything like that - there's some 'feel' to hitting it right - ideally - you want to increase launch RPM until you just start to spin ever so slightly on take off. You'll make 3 shifts in a quarter - 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4. You'll get better times if you don't lift the throttle between shifts. And mind your shifting technique from 2nd to 3rd - don't grab the knob - push forward with the heel of your hand

As far as mods I have - AiRAID CAI, 180 degree JET t-stat, JBA shorty headers, Solo hi-flow cats, and a Heartthrob cat back exhaust - pretty minor stuff. I have a Trinity tuner, and I did pay a fella named Brian at Drag On performance for a custom e-mail tune 11 years ago -he eliminated something that Dodge includes with the manual transmission cars - Buck/Bobble - which is a timing pull when you shift. You don't want that - I suppose it protects the drivetrain a bit (Dodge concerned with warranty repairs, reasonably so) but it hurts ETs.

I have a few other 'tips' too - turn the heat on full, try to keep your idling while waiting to run to a minimum- Ideally my t-stat is just opening when I'm at the tree - - run with 1/4 tank of gas (no more than 3/8s), leave your spare in the pit, and the trunk liner to save 45-50 lbs.

Good luck!
 

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2014 Boosted 392 Stroker Shaker
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The easy way is to throw money at it...
 
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2022 Challenger T/A 5.7, M6
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As far as mods I have - AiRAID CAI, 180 degree JET t-stat, JBA shorty headers, Solo hi-flow cats, and a Heartthrob cat back exhaust - pretty minor stuff. I have a Trinity tuner, and I did pay a fella named Brian at Drag On performance for a custom e-mail tune 11 years ago -he eliminated something that Dodge includes with the manual transmission cars - Buck/Bobble - which is a timing pull when you shift. You don't want that - I suppose it protects the drivetrain a bit (Dodge concerned with warranty repairs, reasonably so) but it hurts ETs.

I have a few other 'tips' too - turn the heat on full, try to keep your idling while waiting to run to a minimum- Ideally my t-stat is just opening when I'm at the tree - - run with 1/4 tank of gas (no more than 3/8s), leave your spare in the pit, and the trunk liner to save 45-50 lbs.

Good luck!
It's coming with the MP CAI from the factory. Will that do? Im looking at headers, but, again, modern. Im also building a big block 71 Demon Sizzler, and have that mapped out pretty well.

What I'm thinking, Edelbrock Victor JR intake manifold, next step up throttle body, shorty headers, high flow cats, cat back exhause,and a custom tune.

Think that will work?

I'd love to hear from those that mod their 5.7 6MT cars and what works vs what doesn't.

Thanks!
 

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It's coming with the MP CAI from the factory. Will that do? Im looking at headers, but, again, modern. Im also building a big block 71 Demon Sizzler, and have that mapped out pretty well.

What I'm thinking, Edelbrock Victor JR intake manifold, next step up throttle body, shorty headers, high flow cats, cat back exhause,and a custom tune.

Think that will work?

I'd love to hear from those that mod their 5.7 6MT cars and what works vs what doesn't.

Thanks!
Visit my Showcase...
 
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Radical weight loss in a car is fiberglass parts and taking just about everything out of a car that doesn’t make it go fast, taking the glass out for something lighter, etc.
 

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2012 Challenger R/T plus, 6spd
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It's coming with the MP CAI from the factory. Will that do? Im looking at headers, but, again, modern. Im also building a big block 71 Demon Sizzler, and have that mapped out pretty well.

What I'm thinking, Edelbrock Victor JR intake manifold, next step up throttle body, shorty headers, high flow cats, cat back exhause,and a custom tune.

Think that will work?

I'd love to hear from those that mod their 5.7 6MT cars and what works vs what doesn't.

Thanks!
A supercharger? My car got to 12.96 on street tires.
 
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It's coming with the MP CAI from the factory. Will that do? Im looking at headers, but, again, modern. Im also building a big block 71 Demon Sizzler, and have that mapped out pretty well.

What I'm thinking, Edelbrock Victor JR intake manifold, next step up throttle body, shorty headers, high flow cats, cat back exhause,and a custom tune.

Think that will work?

I'd love to hear from those that mod their 5.7 6MT cars and what works vs what doesn't.

Thanks!
I don't think there's much difference in CAIs - most aren't true CAIs anyway - they're drawing air from the engine compartment. That's one of the reasons I try to minimize idling while staged at the drag strip to make a run.

Edelbrock Victor Jr intake? I thought that was for older carb cars. On your list, the only thing I'm familiar with are headers, high flow cats, tune and cat back exhaust. I've read there's little if any benefit to changing throttle body.

Oh, I also forgot to mention -you'll need a tuner (Diablosport Trinity, Predator, etc) for the tunes. And, if you do headers, and high flow exhaust, you'll want to play with advancing spark and fuel. I found my best runs with my set up were with 2+ spark and 2+ fuel - but that will depend on the car/set up.
 

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Ahhh, I see - it's not a Victor Jr - it's a Victor EFI Gen 3 intake....

Edelbrock, in the description, stated the prototype gained 25 hp on a 6.4 -however, personally, I've no knowledge of the actual HP gains, if any, for this part on a 5.7.

 

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The rule of thumb for weight is gaining a tenth of a second for every one hundred pounds removed. Drag radials (not inexpensive) will help eliminate wheel hop as already stated. Anything after this that will actually help costs serious money, and the best mod for consistency would be the exhaust; long tubes, flow-thru cats, X-pipe and a cat back with a custom tune. Getting better times is a very deep rabbit hole...
 
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