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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #61
still waiting, so I made a list of things to get done while the car is apart:
Radiator
Oil Cooler
Driveshaft loop
Dipstick tube
Replace red wrapped hoses with some left over stainless steel braided an8 line I have.

All the parts (except the radiator) are on hand, so I can do it as work / family permits.
The dipstick tube has needed to be modified for a long time now, but I was lazy and zip tied it in place until recently when it started leaking...
I ended up re-bending the tube to clear the front header pipe, then cut & notched the mounting tab to attach onto the front lower rocker arm cover bolt.
I wasn't worried about dressing cuts on the tab as it's not easily visible, but it does secure the dipstick in an easily accessible location.
Getting the bends just right took a surprising amount of time as I had to test fit it after each tweak, which required feeding it down through the top, then rolling underneath to align the tube end to the opening on the block...up down up down....
Next item will be the oil cooler relocation and the driveshaft loop.
The radiator is supposedly shipping this week...we'll see. Hand made parts and covid are slowing everything down...
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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i cant stand the Plastic loom! heat kills. it.. and as i see in your images. doesn't cover 100%, i use this. and recommend.


More flexible than our Split Loom Tubing
25% edge overlap
Cut and abrasion resistant
Halogen Free
Retains shape and rigidity throughout temperature range
Temperature Range – -94 degF to 257 degF
Melt Temp – 482 degF

I have done all under my hood an near my headers with this. its amazing. and wraps 100% around and overlaps when you get the correct size.
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #63
I have some stainless an line I'll be using, I think those are the PCV lines to the catch can, the fuel line is black braided -8 line.
 

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1937 ram, 1970 340 Duster, 1993 stealth, 2010 challenger rt, 2014 ram
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1 added core on a radiator is a lot. My 70 Duster had a 4 core, where a unmodded duster came with 3, that with a flex fan & the car never overheated. When it goes back on the road it will have at least one electric fan, the radiators of way back when did not have the surface area of today.
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #65
weird stuff happening...
I started the removal process yesterday - removed both front & rear belly pan, the bumper cover, the shaker, and started draining the coolant via the petcock drain on the bottom of the radiator.
Only about 1 gallon came out...I then removed the radiator cap (thinking maybe there was a vacuum causing the coolant to stop draining.
When I removed the radiator cap a large amount of coolant (.5-1 gallon guessing) came shooting out of the reservoir and made a hugh mess (the car has been in the garage and off for several days, was stone cold).
How was positive pressure present with the radiator drain open, or at all with the engine cold??
Why didn't the coolant drain out with the drain open??
WTF??

I am now thinking that there is possibly a clog preventing the water from draining?
I removed the reservoir and inspected, it's got some junk / buildup in it but not clogged (it will be getting cleaned / replaced).
The coolant I have recovered so far looks clean and re-usable.
From what I can gather the large hose off the reservoir goes back behind the intake to the metal line that runs up to the water pump.
More good news: the bleed port on the top of the water pump is frozen in place (see pic)...I tried multiple ways to remove it and if the removal bit and drill doesn't work I'll be replacing the waterpump...there is not enough room to try and drill it out until I get the radiator out of the way.

The new radiator should be delivered today...more to follow.
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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Don't forget with thermostat closed its 2 sides.. while doing this I would put a new thermostat.
I always drain the res tank 1st with my vac. Them the radiator, I also open the bleeder on h20 pump
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #67
Progress...old rad is out.
New rad and clip kit arrived. The radiator seems to have a drain on each side for some reason.
new mopar water pump and reservoir tank on the way from rockauto, should be here Friday. I was unsuccessful at removing the stuck bleed plug...
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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what's the part number on the clip kit.. that's handy!..
Also.. why is there silicone gasket maker on the thermostat housing> that takes a Oring around the t-stat.. and seals like a charm..

I installed a bleeder permantly into my water pump.. just like the ones on the brembo brakes.. works perfect.. . i enjoy my Ron davis rad. it works flawless.. .

While that far.. i did replace the Fan assembly(the rockauto new version os brushless) highly recommend.. reason i did my replacement.. my blades came apart on last one an took out the oem rad. good time to do it while in there.
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #69 (Edited)
the RTV was for the t-stat housing, i was swapping t-stats and didn't have a replacement gasket.
I am thinking about swapping to the dual fan setup, I found one on amazon. rock auto has them as well, i'll see which has the better deal if needed.
It's a universal kit, I'll see if I can post the link to it. It's got more than I need but comes with the tools and is cheaper than going to the parts house.

edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L6FJGR4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I had to order new upper & lower hoses as the ID of the aftermarket rad is larger than the 5.7, they will be ready for pickup tomorrow. I will be waiting until the water pump arrives before anything else gets done, it should be here on Friday. If the mopar water pump comes with the rubber OE style gasket I shouldn't need to use any RTV...I don't trust the flat paper type.
New water pump, radiator, hoses, reservoir, and 2.5 gallons of coolant...
side note: it only takes an extra 20 mins to pull the bumper cover and it makes accessing the hardware so much easier.
I am hoping to have the car back together by this time next week...the new radiator will definitely need to come up from underneath, it is much larger than the factory setup.
 
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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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be sure your new rad. allows you to install the oem rubbers on the top bottom an sides.. these are key to air flow with the shroud. how is it going so far?
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #71
Not sure if they'll still fit, the new rad is a lot larger than the old one. I'll attach them if their is room.
Progress: water pump off, mating surface cleaned, waiting on new pump to arrive tomorrow.
I'm thinking about going back with a little RTV, I see a lot of casting imperfections (which is why I used a small amount last time).
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #72
Progress - water pump, new coolant reservoir, and thermostat installed.
I learned something while evacuating the remaining coolant from the block - the smaller hose coming off the reservoir can shoot coolant rather far when ~25 psi of air is introduced (this was before I installed the water pump).

The radiator is about 1/2 way in - supported at the moment on jack stands, up high enough for me to attach the condenser coil...which was a debacle.
Maybe it's me, but if i pay what I consider a lot for a custom radiator that is advertised as a 'drop in replacement', i would expect the need to file attachment points and fab mount adapters to be not required...and I would also expect hardware if not reusing the factory attachment screws / bolts. If the fan bolts directly up, and it keeps the engine cool, I'll be ok with it.
Enough complaining, it does look good, and it's big.
I expect it to work well once installation is completed, which should be at the end of the week depending on work.
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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had the condensor find as well with ron davis, but.. i made him a template, sent back. and he updated the rad. we found there are 3 different condensor mount point changes over last few year.
if you have a manual/or auto. there is a different type.. if you have a rt or srt there is a different type.. all fun
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #74
had the condensor find as well with ron davis, but.. i made him a template, sent back. and he updated the rad. we found there are 3 different condensor mount point changes over last few year.
if you have a manual/or auto. there is a different type.. if you have a rt or srt there is a different type.. all fun
nice. I had to wait over 6 weeks for it to arrive, didn't want to wait another 4-6 for the re-work. The mount adapters should work...l may replace the condenser coil in the future anyway (after a cam swap, engine swap, rad swap, it's a little beat up) so I can try and find what works with the bolt pattern on the rad.
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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nice. I had to wait over 6 weeks for it to arrive, didn't want to wait another 4-6 for the re-work. The mount adapters should work...l may replace the condenser coil in the future anyway (after a cam swap, engine swap, rad swap, it's a little beat up) so I can try and find what works with the bolt pattern on the rad.
rock auto will be your best bet.. cause you can view each type by engine model and see images. i know a few mount on front, a few mount on sides. making your own brackets will work also. i just wanted to help ron with his future offerings. an its only 1 hr trip away.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Mine is odd: three on the front, upper driver side on the side of radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
One step forward, three steps back...
The good: So the radiator support is bolted to the frame and the radiator is almost where it should be.
The not good:
It appears the rad is sitting about 1" too low to make good contact with the upper supports. Also, the bottom of the radiator is virtually sitting down against the support. The only way I can see solving this issue is borderline roadkill style - stack two rubber grommets ontop of each other to increase the spacing between the rad and the support. I'm going to guess the OE grommets are probably a little flatter than when new 10 years ago.
More not good: the uber-fancy drain valve has a leak, I'll be replacing it with a brass NPT plug tomorrow. I was pressure testing the system and could not get it to hold more than a few psi. Put some water in the rad and found the leak.
I am hoping tomorrow after the drain is plugged i can pressure test the system dry, then add coolant and bleed the air out.
Time for beer...
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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i installed a XRP 90 that is 1 end oring boss, and the drain end a flare with flare cap. all alumin. :cool:
 

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2009 Limited SRT8, Brilliant Black ⚫, Centerforce Clutch, BMR susp., Belanger Headers, Lowered
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One step forward, three steps back...
The good: So the radiator support is bolted to the frame and the radiator is almost where it should be.
The not good:
It appears the rad is sitting about 1" too low to make good contact with the upper supports. Also, the bottom of the radiator is virtually sitting down against the support. The only way I can see solving this issue is borderline roadkill style - stack two rubber grommets ontop of each other to increase the spacing between the rad and the support. I'm going to guess the OE grommets are probably a little flatter than when new 10 years ago.
More not good: the uber-fancy drain valve has a leak, I'll be replacing it with a brass NPT plug tomorrow. I was pressure testing the system and could not get it to hold more than a few psi. Put some water in the rad and found the leak.
I am hoping tomorrow after the drain is plugged i can pressure test the system dry, then add coolant and bleed the air out.
Time for beer...
\
Your rad. on the lower bottom should have studs to go into the oem grommets.. like the ones highlighted. . an for the upper.. your oem brackets should still grab the top side safely.
260787
 

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2010 Challenger 6M- Brilliant Black, 426 stroker, Hellcat rear cradle, ZF 3.90 diff, DSS 1 piece
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Discussion Starter #80
^ agreed, but the radiator sits too low by about 1" with the OEM grommets to be secured with the upper supports.

i installed a XRP 90 that is 1 end oring boss, and the drain end a flare with flare cap. all alumin. :cool:

Do you have a link to the fitting you are referring to? The image i pulled up on the googler looked like AN 8 to 6 adapter.
Will that work with the setup I have?

I am going to pickup the brass plug later today so I can get the cooling system pressure tested & finished up, but it would be nice to have a better method to drain the radiator.
 
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