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Discussion Starter #1
BEFORE YOU START YES I KNOW there's a lots of threads, posts, videos, and sites on this,BUT they don't cover what I want, I looked everywhere!
After collecting Hopefully a mass amount of info, I want to make a ONE STOP for NOOBS like myself, to truly start from. *will give credit of course to the really good threads and posts I see*

TOOLS: Griot's Garage 6" Polisher(W/ LC 5in plate), Lake Country Pads 5 1/2" 6xOrange(compounding) 1xyellow (incase I need stronger than orange for a section) , 4xWhite(polishing), 1xBlue(waxing), and for the glazing idk

Product: Meguair's M105 Compound, Meguair's M205 Polish, Meguiar's M7 Glaze, Liquid Glass (for the wax best reviews ive ever seen in any wax, and YES I KNOW its not technically a wax *TOO some* but to me yes)

So lets start, I made this even with the thousands of shit on this topic already because I want certain details I could not find or could not find repeatedly as a verification.

1. Compounding - imma start off with my experience, so original had a yellow Meg's pad, a $30 black&decker orbital and Meg's Ultimate Compound. I used 3/4 of the bottle on my ONE CAR ( that has to be wrong right ??) btw its a 2015 Challenger Scat Pack. it had a shit ton of swirls, I spent an hour on the hood and that results are these
19369134_10207353928006969_287554861_o.jpg

my wife took the pick I'm underway (I'm in the US Navy) posting this on my ship.

ANYWAYS, ik the polisher I had wasn't good but hot damn 1 whole hour to 1:30 just on the hood & that's my results!! rest of the car isn't too bad .

SO LONG STORY SHORT

1. COMPOUNDING what's your technique/ recommendations to the following

A) How much you use I seen vids where its 3 dime sizes or 5 dime sizes or long ass globs WHICH IS IT???

B) I know you overlap 50% but how many FULL laps do you do or should be able to get to or "do you stop and wipe" or "add more compound" when its clear or hazy?

C) how big should my sections be I hear 1foot by 1foot to 2foot by 2 foot or bigger? to me the first two seem like that's really small and will take years idk lol.

D) DIRECTIONS single directions or double directions and Speed for my GG6 *starting & Mid*

E) Should I wipe after every application or keep wet and about how many times for wet option ( and when would I re-wet when its clear or hazy on the paint)

F) I feel I should be using a lot less than 3/4 of 16 oz bottle of compound on ONE CAR .. am I right??

THANK YOU FOR KEEPING UP YOU SO FAR!! promise the rest wont be so complicated, but I feel compounding is the most technical and serious part of detailing because of cutting

NEXT
2. POLISHING - truth time ... ugh okay I DIDNT POLISH in the that pic above, I ran out of time and went straight to waxing! *phew* glad that's off my chest. BUT I've seen in videos of ppl getting rid of their swirls with just compound so wtf happened with me!?

A) QUICK OPTION is this treated the exact same as compounding as the above answers?

B) If not Tell me amount, directions, speed, how many FULL laps, amount of times to re-wet or is there NO RE-WET just wipe, section sizes?

See that was easy!

NEXT
3. GLAZE - from what I seen looks easy still want you technique guys, never done this, so help me out so I can help others with the soon to be made thread!

A) amount looks like enough to make a thin coat

B) time I saw was 15 minutes left on the paint

C) any tips or left out info please do tell??

NEXT
4. WAX - okay my experience easy enough but I went thru 3/4 of one can Meg's ultimate past wax I feel like I used way too much am I right????

A) how much like a very thin coat that you can barely see, or thin coat you can see easily or paste that Sh*t on there like I did

B)so I know for regular wax you leave on there for about 5 minutes slide your finger up and if the path is clear its time to wipe, RIGHT? ... BUT any Liquid Glass users here that can tell me how to use it correctly??

C) Liquid glass Questions: same as "WAX a)how much" and CURE TIME I've read that 30 minutes in the sun to 3 hours in the sun and I've read wipe off within 30 minutes then put car in sun for 3 hours is that what it means by curing?

that's it guys IM FINISHED sorry for the long story but I want a single thread that covers damn near all of the questions I got and I know others have

SO THANK YOU for reading and especially those that comment!!!! also please tell me if made some spelling errors or anything
 

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The best videos I've watched were from junkman 2000 on YouTube. His early videos are long and show step by step on how to do multiple things
 

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Tools: Did you use a Dual Action polisher? Whatever you used, it didn't work too well. I use a Porter Cable D/A polisher, polish in small square sections (and yes it takes a long time). You have to go slowly, make two passes vertical and horizontal, then wipe and don't add more compound. Only repeat if you still see swirl marks. Try a stiffer pad if you aren't getting good results. Did you clay bar the car before polishing? Important step that shouldn't be ignored. I personally haven't done the polishing step. Just the light compound, then waxing. I think if I was 20 years younger, had a week to only work on the car, then I might include this step. This is my first Challenger after a clay, polish and wax:

07081.jpg
 

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Like Betty said you should clay bar the car first, actually wash it with Dawn first, Dawn will strip off the wax and really clean up the car. Claying will cleanup the dirt and particulars deep in the paint, do the plastic baggie test, put your hand in the baggie and run it over the paint, if's its really clean it will be smooth, if not it will feel pebbly, claying will make it smooth. I believe if you get it to that point when you take the compound to it you will get better results.
 

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Tools: Did you use a Dual Action polisher? Whatever you used, it didn't work too well. I use a Porter Cable D/A polisher, polish in small square sections (and yes it takes a long time). You have to go slowly, make two passes vertical and horizontal, then wipe and don't add more compound. Only repeat if you still see swirl marks. Try a stiffer pad if you aren't getting good results. Did you clay bar the car before polishing? Important step that shouldn't be ignored. I personally haven't done the polishing step. Just the light compound, then waxing. I think if I was 20 years younger, had a week to only work on the car, then I might include this step. This is my first Challenger after a clay, polish and wax:

View attachment 101636
This is exactly how I do it only I use a paint sealer. Then a week or two later top with wax.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Tools: Did you use a Dual Action polisher? Whatever you used, it didn't work too well. I use a Porter Cable D/A polisher, polish in small square sections (and yes it takes a long time). You have to go slowly, make two passes vertical and horizontal, then wipe and don't add more compound. Only repeat if you still see swirl marks. Try a stiffer pad if you aren't getting good results. Did you clay bar the car before polishing? Important step that shouldn't be ignored. I personally haven't done the polishing step. Just the light compound, then waxing. I think if I was 20 years younger, had a week to only work on the car, then I might include this step. This is my first Challenger after a clay, polish and wax:

View attachment 101636
Yes proper cleaning was done to car 2 buckets w/ grit clay double wash
 

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Hard to tell you every step, but one thing i can say is practice makes perfect :) If you are not totally happy , you can redo the last 2 step. And also, you can try with a swirl eliminator formulated for black or darker colors.
 

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Using your car as an example, here's what my process would be (your mileage may vary). The Junkman videos are fantastic for learning "how" to do paint correction, just don't get caught up on his product endorsements (they've changed based on his endorsement fees)

Equipment: READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR EACH PIECE OF EQUIPMENT

Porter Cable XP7425 Dual Action polisher (5") (I first used the Harbor Freight 6" DA to teach myself the process, but believe me, the PC XP blows that away)
Griots 3" DA polisher
Strong LED lights overhead
Portable LED light on light stand
Two (2) Five gallon buckets with grit guards
Greenworks Electric Power Washer (using "medium" white wand tip)
Autozone Green Knobby wash mitts
Microfiber Waffle Weave towels
Plastic grocery bags

Products: READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR EACH PRODUCT
Prep/Paint Correction:

Dawn dish washing detergent
Magna Shine Medium and Fine Cut Clay Bars
Ultima Waterless Wash (mixed as detailing spray)
Lake County Microfiber cutting pad
Lake County Microfiber polishing pad
Griot's foam pads (not thrilled with them, but I use the 3" sparingly anyways)
Menzerna Medium Cut Polish 2500
Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800

Paint Sealant/Waxing
Menzerna Top Finish Machine Glaze
Collinite #476 Super Double Coat Auto Wax (first year I've used this; last two years has been Four Star UPP - Ultimate Paint Polish, a paint sealant)

Process:
I first blast any particulates off the car with the power washer. I then use a foam cannon and turn my car into a cotton ball using the Dawn Detergent and let it soak for 5 minutes.

I then rinse with power washer, then, following the Two-Bucket method of washing again using Dawn, I use the wash mitts to get every single last piece of loose particulate off the car. This also serves to get the Dawn into every body crease, crevice and seam to break down and strip any old sealants, waxes, oils, etc.

I then put my hand into one of the plastic grocery bags and gently rub my finger tips over every inch of painted surface. If you've never clayed your car before, just plan on doing the whole thing...the w.h.o.l.e freaking car...makes you appreciate just how big these cars are...but I digress..

Starting with the "fine cut" clay and using copious amounts of detail spray, clay anywhere and everywhere you felt "roughness" through the plastic bag; you really have to use the bag to truly detect the particulates stuck to your clear (or worse, your paint). If a piece of particulate is stubborn, you might have to step up to the Medium cut clay.

(with all such products, clays, cutting liquids, pads, etc. always, always start with the gentlest first and increase "strength" on an as needed basis only)

Once e.v.e.r.y painted panel has been clayed, I wash again with Dawn, to get any clay scraps and loosened particulates off, then dry with the towels.
NOTE: Once you've clayed your car to this extent, you do not have to do it on a regular basis; only on an "as needed" basis as detected by the baggy test. Seal your paint right, and you won't have to do it again for a couple of years...I'm going on 3 years now without having to do more than the very rare claying of very small areas due to weird particulates (bird poo doesn't stick, 99% of hard water stains don't stick to my paint).

Again, using your car as the "subject", I would then go over every square inch with my DA (3" for those narrow parts on hood, A pillars, around rear window and the painted bumper section just below the trunk) using the LC cutting pad and the Menzerna Medium Cut polish. For the PC XP, first set it at #2 to spread the 2500 around the two-foot section you're working on, then crank it up to 4.5, 5. Don't over polish or set too high a speed as the Menzerna will flash (dust up).

I typically do 4 sets of Up/down/Left/right. Spray any remaining residue with your detail spray and wipe clean with waffle weave towel and inspect work using the LED lights. Depending on severity of swirls, and your technique, you should have most of what your picture shows gone; any remainder should be addressed using the Menzerna 3800 on its own pad.

Once you've corrected your paint to the level you're satisfied with (time, exhaustion, real life intrusions dictating how OCD you can get), then move onto the Glaze; this will fill any light swirls or marring you might have left (or missed).

The Menzerna Glaze doesn't need time to "cure" or bond; it is simply a filler used to level out your surface. As soon as you have completed applying that, then you get to the final step....wax or sealant.

THIS IS THE MOST SUBJECTIVE STEP:
It all depends on your tastes, your budget, and what your desired end-finish is supposed to look like. Sealants (and nano/ceramic coatings) tend to give a "hard candy shell" finish; carnauba waxes more of a "deep wet" look (but still highly reflective).

I have a Pitch Black Scat, and prefer the "deep wet" look, which is why I switched from the Four Star to Collinite. Collinite however, due to the durability of its products (#476 and #845 Insulation wax) acts more like a sealant than a wax...the stuff is DURABLE. The first picture below was taken June 18th; I completed my detailing of the car in early March and haven't done anything other than wash it since - 1,500 miles through rain and scorching sun, and almost 25 runs at the drag strip.

You can go the usual route and pick an Adams, or Chemical Guys, or Autogeek product and stick with it, or....you can experiment. Find a knowledgeable source of information for the real information about the products. For example: Wolfgang products are considered high end, and are priced that way. Fact of the matter is, Four Star makes many of their products and Wolfgange slaps their labels on them. A 16 oz bottle of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant costs $39.99 at Autogeek; the same product with the Four Star UPP manufacturer's label costs $29.99....but if you can find a small business owner in the detailing business, you might be able to join any "club" said detailer sets up, and possibly get a further discount. I use Autoality.com for just that reason.

I think my process works pretty well; you be the judge.





 

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Tools: Did you use a Dual Action polisher? Whatever you used, it didn't work too well. I use a Porter Cable D/A polisher, polish in small square sections (and yes it takes a long time). You have to go slowly, make two passes vertical and horizontal, then wipe and don't add more compound. Only repeat if you still see swirl marks. Try a stiffer pad if you aren't getting good results. Did you clay bar the car before polishing? Important step that shouldn't be ignored. I personally haven't done the polishing step. Just the light compound, then waxing. I think if I was 20 years younger, had a week to only work on the car, then I might include this step. This is my first Challenger after a clay, polish and wax:

View attachment 101636
This is also the method I use. There are some great videos on the auto-geek site that show you step by step how-to's to get the best results. Brand names of products can be switched out per your preference.

One thing you forgot Betty, is a cooler with your favorite beverages for breaks during this time consuming task!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Using your car as an example, here's what my process would be (your mileage may vary). The Junkman videos are fantastic for learning "how" to do paint correction, just don't get caught up on his product endorsements (they've changed based on his endorsement fees)

Equipment: READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR EACH PIECE OF EQUIPMENT

Porter Cable XP7425 Dual Action polisher (5") (I first used the Harbor Freight 6" DA to teach myself the process, but believe me, the PC XP blows that away)
Griots 3" DA polisher
Strong LED lights overhead
Portable LED light on light stand
Two (2) Five gallon buckets with grit guards
Greenworks Electric Power Washer (using "medium" white wand tip)
Autozone Green Knobby wash mitts
Microfiber Waffle Weave towels
Plastic grocery bags

Products: READ AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS FOR EACH PRODUCT
Prep/Paint Correction:

Dawn dish washing detergent
Magna Shine Medium and Fine Cut Clay Bars
Ultima Waterless Wash (mixed as detailing spray)
Lake County Microfiber cutting pad
Lake County Microfiber polishing pad
Griot's foam pads (not thrilled with them, but I use the 3" sparingly anyways)
Menzerna Medium Cut Polish 2500
Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800

Paint Sealant/Waxing
Menzerna Top Finish Machine Glaze
Collinite #476 Super Double Coat Auto Wax (first year I've used this; last two years has been Four Star UPP - Ultimate Paint Polish, a paint sealant)

Process:
I first blast any particulates off the car with the power washer. I then use a foam cannon and turn my car into a cotton ball using the Dawn Detergent and let it soak for 5 minutes.

I then rinse with power washer, then, following the Two-Bucket method of washing again using Dawn, I use the wash mitts to get every single last piece of loose particulate off the car. This also serves to get the Dawn into every body crease, crevice and seam to break down and strip any old sealants, waxes, oils, etc.

I then put my hand into one of the plastic grocery bags and gently rub my finger tips over every inch of painted surface. If you've never clayed your car before, just plan on doing the whole thing...the w.h.o.l.e freaking car...makes you appreciate just how big these cars are...but I digress..

Starting with the "fine cut" clay and using copious amounts of detail spray, clay anywhere and everywhere you felt "roughness" through the plastic bag; you really have to use the bag to truly detect the particulates stuck to your clear (or worse, your paint). If a piece of particulate is stubborn, you might have to step up to the Medium cut clay.

(with all such products, clays, cutting liquids, pads, etc. always, always start with the gentlest first and increase "strength" on an as needed basis only)

Once e.v.e.r.y painted panel has been clayed, I wash again with Dawn, to get any clay scraps and loosened particulates off, then dry with the towels.
NOTE: Once you've clayed your car to this extent, you do not have to do it on a regular basis; only on an "as needed" basis as detected by the baggy test. Seal your paint right, and you won't have to do it again for a couple of years...I'm going on 3 years now without having to do more than the very rare claying of very small areas due to weird particulates (bird poo doesn't stick, 99% of hard water stains don't stick to my paint).

Again, using your car as the "subject", I would then go over every square inch with my DA (3" for those narrow parts on hood, A pillars, around rear window and the painted bumper section just below the trunk) using the LC cutting pad and the Menzerna Medium Cut polish. For the PC XP, first set it at #2 to spread the 2500 around the two-foot section you're working on, then crank it up to 4.5, 5. Don't over polish or set too high a speed as the Menzerna will flash (dust up).

I typically do 4 sets of Up/down/Left/right. Spray any remaining residue with your detail spray and wipe clean with waffle weave towel and inspect work using the LED lights. Depending on severity of swirls, and your technique, you should have most of what your picture shows gone; any remainder should be addressed using the Menzerna 3800 on its own pad.

Once you've corrected your paint to the level you're satisfied with (time, exhaustion, real life intrusions dictating how OCD you can get), then move onto the Glaze; this will fill any light swirls or marring you might have left (or missed).

The Menzerna Glaze doesn't need time to "cure" or bond; it is simply a filler used to level out your surface. As soon as you have completed applying that, then you get to the final step....wax or sealant.

THIS IS THE MOST SUBJECTIVE STEP:
It all depends on your tastes, your budget, and what your desired end-finish is supposed to look like. Sealants (and nano/ceramic coatings) tend to give a "hard candy shell" finish; carnauba waxes more of a "deep wet" look (but still highly reflective).

I have a Pitch Black Scat, and prefer the "deep wet" look, which is why I switched from the Four Star to Collinite. Collinite however, due to the durability of its products (#476 and #845 Insulation wax) acts more like a sealant than a wax...the stuff is DURABLE. The first picture below was taken June 18th; I completed my detailing of the car in early March and haven't done anything other than wash it since - 1,500 miles through rain and scorching sun, and almost 25 runs at the drag strip.

You can go the usual route and pick an Adams, or Chemical Guys, or Autogeek product and stick with it, or....you can experiment. Find a knowledgeable source of information for the real information about the products. For example: Wolfgang products are considered high end, and are priced that way. Fact of the matter is, Four Star makes many of their products and Wolfgange slaps their labels on them. A 16 oz bottle of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant costs $39.99 at Autogeek; the same product with the Four Star UPP manufacturer's label costs $29.99....but if you can find a small business owner in the detailing business, you might be able to join any "club" said detailer sets up, and possibly get a further discount. I use Autoality.com for just that reason.

I think my process works pretty well; you be the judge.





THANK YOU for your well put post but PLEASE TELL ME what that scat thing inside your car is I like it
 

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Mopartial to Challengers
2013 Dodge Challenger R/T Classic
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For what I see on your photos above, the swirls are not severe, making them easily correctable. It looks like your problem may be more of technique rather than the products you used. The Griots polisher is a dual action polisher and right for the job. Meguiars Ultimate Compound is a good aggressive compound well suited for the level of swirling displayed in your photos. But going through 3/4 of a bottle is way too much. For the entire car, you should not need more than an ounce or two. Ultimate compound is made with Meguiars super micro-abrasive technology (SMAT) meaning that the compound never breaks down. Theoretically, you should be able to keep polishing with your initial application without having to re-apply more compound to your pad.

Try the following. Work on sections no more than 2' by 2'. From your photos, I am guessing that you worked larger panel sections which can make your paint correction (compounding) seem ineffective. Your first section will be your test section. Keep working on this section until you can see a visible difference in paint clarity and smoothness from the rest of your paint. Typically, a section on the hood works best because it's more comfortable and you have a flat surface to set down your beer on a rubber backed coaster...

I am assuming that you have clayed your paint prior to paint correction. If not, take the advice of the members who have already replied to your post and clay the paint. Should take no more than 90 minutes your first time claying the paint, and less as you get comfortable with the process and develop your technique.

Mask off emblems with blue painter's tape. You can also elect to tape off hood, trunk, and door edges, although that's not really necessary with a dual action polisher. But it does help to keep compound residue out of the seams.

Use microfiber pads. This will cut your time and effort nearly in half. Microfiber cutting pads are almost as effective as wool pads, but much friendlier in the hands of a novice detailer. Wool pads are typically used by pro detailers using rotational polishers. But unless you know what you're doing, this powerful polishing combo can burn, micro-mar or hologram your paint. But using microfiber pads with a dual action polisher, you get nearly the same effectiveness without the risk. I use Buff and Shine 6.5" Orange Microfiber Cutting Pads for several reasons. The nap on the face of the pad is very thick and resists matting, so you don't have to stop and clean the pad face nearly as often. The cutting pad underneath the microfiber nap has fantastic firmness, and the Velcro backing won't rip off when you remove the pad from the backing plate.

Prime the microfiber pad. There is an excellent product by Blackfire called Advanced Pad Conditioner, but you can use a non hydrophobic detail spray (the same stuff you would use for claying). Spray the pad face a few times just enough to dampen the microfiber nap.

Set your speed to setting 5, or 5500 OPM, or the second to last setting on your polisher. Never set your speed to the maximum setting. It might haze your paint and it will destroy your polishing pad.

First pass. Apply your compound liberally for the first initial pass. I usually just swirl the compound to the pad face, not to the paint. After that first pass on that first section, you should be able to just apply 5 or 6 drops just inside the diameter of the pad for ensuing sections. Before you hit the polisher's trigger, "bunny hop" the pad across the section of paint you are compounding. This will help prevent splatter when you start spinning the pad. Your application pattern will be a series of overlapping crosshatched passes (usually about 3-4 passes over the same 2'x2' area). Apply light pressure and move your pad at a rate of about 2" per second. After you complete your passes, buff off with a soft cloth and inspect for swirls. If they remain, run a 2nd set of passes applying more pressure. But keep in mind, with a dual action polisher, you cannot apply too much pressure without stopping the polisher head from oscillating. You will have to strike a balance between the two.

Drain at least half of that beer sitting on your hood.

Once you have determined your technique from your test panel, you are now ready to apply the same method to the rest of your paint. Drop your polisher speed setting by at least one level when polishing (or compounding) paint on plastic surfaces such as door mirror housings, bumper covers, etc.
 

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THANK YOU for your well put post but PLEASE TELL ME what that scat thing inside your car is I like it
Those are door props; they secure the door open for car shows. Visibility inside is increased while still blocking folks from getting in. Google "car show door props" and you can find vendors...I made mine.
 

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and how is you muffler system setup 4 outs?
OEM exhaust has been retained; I live in The People's Republic of Northern Virginia.

Side pipes are fed by cutouts installed just after the Cats.
 

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Reading with interest, have had 3 quotes in the last week to do this job for me as I don't trust myself and have Carlisle coming up . They range from 1600 to 200 dollars. I have the gear but would rather practice on my truck but have all but run out of time . My other issue is my car has 35 year old single stage paint and not a lot of info out there on this . I will keep an eye on this thread and contribute if I can .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thank you guys for all the post and help. this is amazing and im really happy I made this thread . I don't even think I need to make another one noobs and even novice could probably grab something from this thread especially if more keep posting
SO IF YOU GOT MORE TO SAY. more is always better
 

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Waiting for beautiful fall colors!
2020 Go Mango Scat Pack
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Chris,
I posted this picture recently but can't remember which thread, but here is the kit I ordered from Auto Geek with the D/A polisher:
IMG_0697.JPG


IMG_0700.JPG
 
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