What is the replacement schedule for the accessory drive belt? These have a finite life span and should be replaced on schedule.
Clunking can be suspension/steering hardware related.
But it can also be "normal". Normal? Well, yes. Some cars and your car may be included in this have a pretty radical steering setup. By radical I refer to the geometry of the front wheels to deal with a car capable of some speed and a lot of weight to control. This geometry works very well as speed goes up which is why these cars have a pretty good feeling on the road at speed.
But the down side is at real low speed and with the steering wheel at full lock the two front wheels are not quite on the same "page" so to speak when it comes to the turn angle. The outside tire which is flatter and thus has better contact with the pavement controls the turn. The inner tire which is canted over at quite an angle and thus has less contact with the pavement is pretty much along for the ride. As its turn in angle is not quite right the tire can skip/scrub and when it does this it can feel like a "clunk". With some cars with the wheel full lock at higher speeds the inside tire skips so much it mimics the action of an ABS kicking on.
You can see what I'm talking about by on a parking lot turning the wheel full lock then shutting off the engine. It is not a good idea to have the wheel full lock and let the engine run. This can overwork the power steering pump.
Then get out of the car and "sight" down the front wheels. You'll see the outer tire flat on the pavement the inner tire not so much.
I have not bothered to take a pic of my Hellcat -- in a sharp slow turn I hear a clicking which is the tire scrubbing just enough to cause the pads to rattle -- but below is a pic of my Boxster which shows what I'm talking about.
The task you have is to somehow verify the noise is not something wrong but just "normal".
