If you want to keep the Warranty leave it as is, CAI no HP Increase, Exhaust no HP increase and do not go beyond cat back for sound.
No Bolt on Junk like a TB upgrade you got plenty, No Tune till warranty is up either. Maybe get a Banks Pedal Monster for Throttle Response
that is about it but does not modify HP or Top End Speed. IF you go with factory Suspension Upgrades you keep warranty as long as they install it at dealer.

If you want better Response also a Factory Hellcat Air Box upgrade and Dry Hellcat Filter or a AEM High Flow.

 

If you want to keep the Warranty leave it as is, CAI no HP Increase, Exhaust no HP increase and do not go beyond cat back for sound.
No Bolt on Junk like a TB upgrade you got plenty, No Tune till warranty is up either. Maybe get a Banks Pedal Monster for Throttle Response
that is about it but does not modify HP or Top End Speed. IF you go with factory Suspension Upgrades you keep warranty as long as they install it at dealer.

If you want better Response also a Factory Hellcat Air Box upgrade and Dry Hellcat Filter or a AEM High Flow.

He has a T/A

 

Stick to cosmetic upgrades until you are out of warranty.

 

How about wider tires and new wheels to put down the power you'v got consistently. I have a '22 R/T and that my plan for the spring. Also, listen to these folks like Wm. and BlasterMaster, they know their stuff, and they've saved me some money from buying dumb stuff and probably worse!

 

The widest tire that you can put on these cars isn't going to do a damn thing for traction.

 

Yep, tires and maybe wheels are always a good first step IMO. Ditching the stock Pirelli’s is the best thing you can do.

 

I hope everyone is well,
I’ve had my 22’ Challenger TA 5.7L for about six months, I have not done anything to it, it is still bone stock and I am looking to start doing some upgrades, I’m not going to say money is not an issue, I do have a really good paying job, but my question is, where is The best place to start, without dumping 10K on Supercharger?
suspension, exhaust?
Sidenote, my other vehicle is a jeep Rubicon, that was a no-brainer, easy to modify, just not sure where to start on this challenger.
Thanks in advance for everyone’s input.
Jack. And by the way, you can find me on IG, @Challenger_22

From personal experience the first thing you do performance wise that really makes a noticeable difference is opening the money rabbit hole on the 5.7 because every performance increase reveals something else that has to be upgraded and it just keeps going.

You need to fully understand that Dodge purposely dialed back these 5.7s out of the factory door so the 392 Scat Pack would have no direct competition from the 345 engine.
Even if you start to piece meal your upgrades and do acquire more power from them you won't be able to get that power to the road, as you probably cannot now with it stock.

The tire suggestions are a good start by simply putting a softer rubber composition on you can seriously improve traction. Note that I said softer rubber composition not wider rear tires, because wider rear tires require wider rims, and wider rims and tires weigh more, and add serious drive line restriction to the stock setup. There is a reason Dodge put 245 tires on your car.

But there in is the "Catch 22" that Dodge has designed into these 5.7s, the more traction you get the more pressure you add to the drive line, and the weakest link in the chain breaks first.

So my suggestion is drive the car, save your money, and research the upgrading, and after the warranty is gone, if you still want to upgrade you'll have the money to do it right.

Ry

 

Ok, interesting. Out of curiosity what do you run on yours and why?

 

Truthfully its the Compound that makes a difference for Traction, Softer = More Grip = Shorter Tire Life
Wider Tires are not always the thing they are hyped up to be but they do look cooler.
Taller Sidewalls = Smoother Ride and sometimes Handling.

As RyzRT said also Wider and Softer can be harder on your suspension everything has to be balanced to get best results and reliability.
Depending on your Climate / Weather and Driving Habits helps you choose a better tire for your own desired feel.

Also in addition to Grip and Traction Struts and Springs and Strut Towers help dramatically with this and Handling as well. If your going to alter Tires Size Height and Width
best adjust the suspension first then determine the Tire Size to go with for clearance.

General Consesns on Tires with Challenger Owners are these for a Daily Driver , Performance and all Weather nice tread life.
Continental DWS06 Plus
BF Goodrich Comp 2 AS+
Michelin Pilot Sport 4s All Weather
General G-MAX AS-05

Performance Tires very Expensive and short tread life. (Softer Tires do not like colder Snow Weather BTW)
Good Year Eagle F1
Firestone Firehawks Indy
Nitto
Michelin Pilot Super Sports

Comes down to preference on the Tires and Budget.

 

Truthfully its the Compound that makes a difference for Traction, Softer = More Grip = Shorter Tire Life
Wider Tires are not always the thing they are hyped up to be but they do look cooler.
Taller Sidewalls = Smoother Ride and sometimes Handling.

As RyzRT said also Wider and Softer can be harder on your suspension everything has to be balanced to get best results and reliability.
Depending on your Climate / Weather and Driving Habits helps you choose a better tire for your own desired feel.

Also in addition to Grip and Traction Struts and Springs and Strut Towers help dramatically with this and Handling as well. If your going to alter Tires Size Height and Width
best adjust the suspension first then determine the Tire Size to go with for clearance.

General Consesns on Tires with Challenger Owners are these for a Daily Driver , Performance and all Weather nice tread life.
Continental DWS06 Plus
BF Goodrich Comp 2 AWS+
Michelin Pilot Sport 4s All Weather
General G-MAX AS-05

Performance Tires very Expensive and short tread life. (Softer Tires do not like colder Snow Weather BTW)
Good Year Eagle F1
Firestone Firehawks Indy
Nitto
Michelin Pilot Super Sports

Comes down to preference on the Tires and Budget.

Yep, it boils down to manufacturer and compound. I took nearly 5 seconds off my personal best time at the local road course by going from the stock Pirelli (275/40) to Continental Extreme Contact Sports (285/35).

 

As said previously, appearance mods won't hurt. That T/A would look sharp with the hellcat front fascia from Mopar.

 

Custom tune with unlocked pcm will get you about 30-35hp. Hellcat airbox will lower your IATs. Catch can will reduce oil going into your intake/cylinders. That’s what I would start with if you want to feel a solid power increase.

 

That would Void the Warranty on a 2022 leave it

 

I hope everyone is well,
I’ve had my 22’ Challenger TA 5.7L for about six months, I have not done anything to it, it is still bone stock and I am looking to start doing some upgrades, I’m not going to say money is not an issue, I do have a really good paying job, but my question is, where is The best place to start, without dumping 10K on Supercharger?
suspension, exhaust?
Sidenote, my other vehicle is a jeep Rubicon, that was a no-brainer, easy to modify, just not sure where to start on this challenger.
Thanks in advance for everyone’s input.
Jack. And by the way, you can find me on IG, @Challenger_22

I'd go with long tube headers and a custom tune for performance together with a 180° thermostat. Other good mods would be strut and shock tower braces, a Sprint Booster and a catch can. Also, when the drive shaft fails, get a one piece drive shaft for it.

 

You recommend that with his car still under warranty?

 

I tuned my car years ago while it was under warranty. Years later and hundreds of 1/4 mile passes later it’s still fine. Warranty is long gone now.

Its a risk only the owner should assess for themselves. I personally wanted to race and have fun so I didn’t care. Others don’t race and want the peace of mind of having a warranty. Whatever floats your boat.

But if you want any serious power increases you need to start with an unlocked pcm that you can tune. Hot air intakes and pedal commanders won’t get you any additional power.

 

What's a hot air intake for?

 

Just poking fun at the “cold air intakes” that actually draw in more hot air than the factory setup.

 

Warranty aside.. . . Custom tune will get you more power and you'll need it later anyway ( unlocked pcm) to get the most out of any other engine mods you do. An engine is just a glorified air pump. . find the air restriction and make it bigger. . . Repeat. . . . Repeat. . . Repeat. . . Repeat
Avoid:
- "Cone on a stick filters" even with a shroud they suck hot under hood air . Pull air from outside the engine bay whether stock or aftermarket
-Throttle spacers ( B.S. )

• shorty headers ( no power gain over stock)
• cat back ( unless your wanting to change the sound then they're awesome)
• larger throttle bodies ( you won't see any gains with one until about 550-.600hp level)
• strut braces ( they work, but only in conjunction with under carriage bracing and/or roll bar/cage will there be any noticable difference in chassis flex)

 

The best performance improvement I made was going to wider wheels with a 10.5 width on the rear. Then I researched tire tread wear ratings and settled on 315x35x20 on the rear with a tread wear rating of 300 and had to add 5mm spacers to prevent rubbing. For reference, the M/T street performance tires get a 320 rating. So yes these soft tires only lasted 2 years but the improvement over the 245x40x20 OEM tires was unbelievable. By the way I had the OEM mufflers replaced with Dynomax bullets, perfect no drone.

 

Then I researched tire tread wear ratings and settled on 315x35x20 on the rear with a tread wear rating of 300 and had to add 5mm spacers to prevent rubbing.

What brand did you go with, if you don't mind. I'm planning the move to at least 275's and maybe wider on the back.

 

I tried Atturo 275 tires on the rear, a complete waste of time ! I bought these on Amazon, Cosmo Mucho Mocho tires. They have other brands with 300 TW ratings.