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Discussion starter · #41 ·
The diff? Or the cutout valve? Neither will make a misfire in the engine or cause the code.
Im sorry you live in a place that no one knows how to fix/work on cars. This is ridicules.
The this is there’s no real sound coming from the engine.
This car has a recall for evap recall. Any chance that it could be that?
 
The this is there’s no real sound coming from the engine.
This car has a recall for evap recall. Any chance that it could be that?
With the benefit of more info that you were prompted to change the plugs on #2 due to a misfire suggests there is something -- I don't mean to alarm you but -- serious going on.

As an aside when you replaced the plugs on #2 you should have used the same plugs that you removed. Mopar plugs. And the gap should have been checked.

In these cases my advice is to try to pin point where the noise is coming from. A mechanic's stethoscope can really help in this.

If the noise is coming from inside the engine and from the either upper part of the engine, from under the valve cover and around the #2 cylinder area, or when you probe along the block the noise appears most evident in the #2 cylinker area, that strongly suggests there is more going on and further investigation is necessary.

You can do a compression test. You have to be careful. You start out with a cold engine that has not run for a while. The initial cylinders you test can deliver "low" numbers. Then as you progress the numbers from other cylinders get better. This can arise as the engine is cranked -- of course with the plugs removed -- oil gets onto the cylinder walls and this helps the piston/cylinder "seal" better.

But in this situation you are looking for a big difference between the other cylinders and the suspected bad cylinder.

After a compression test a leak down test can be done. As the suspected bad cylinder is pressurized you might hear -- with the oil cap off -- sounds of air leaking from inside the engine. This suggests the rings are bad. Air sounds at the intake -- somewhat exposed -- is a bad intake valve. Or at the exhaust a bad exhaust valve.

The misfire most likely isn't ring related. Intake valves seldom go bad. But an exhaust valve problem is not unknown. A co-worker with a 100K mile Subie reported a misfire and tried various things with no success. Engine "teardown" found a burned exhaust valve. Just out of the blue. The bad valve was replaced and the engine ran just fine.

If there is no air leak but yet the compression test finds the cylinder pressure low compared to the other cylinders this can be due to a bad valve lifter/cam lobe. The cylinder just doesn't fill well because the valve action is compromised.

Any signs of low compression or a leak during a leak down test will almost certainly require some further investigation to diagnose. (Years ago the engine in my D200 pickup -- a used state highway department truck -- started "ticking". Eventually I removed the intake manifold and exposed the valley between the cylinder banks. I could see daylight between some cam bearings. The cam bearing shells had gone away -- probably from the engine idling so much -- this lowered oil pressure to the lifters to the point they "ticked".)

If a cam lobe/lifter is suspected a proper sample of engine oil can be obtained and sent out for analysis. If the ferrous metal ppm is "high" this can be due to cam lobe/lifter wear.
 
What year is the car? 36,000 miles would be under warranty unless you are past 5 years old.
 
I have the same issue going on with my '14 Chrysler 300C throwing a P219A code which is left bank. Trouble is, have checked everything, and this car runs absolutely perfect with 245 psi compression across the board in all cylinders, and leakdown taken on a couple of cylinders came up well below 10%. Valvetrain is intact, inspected that and no issues noted, retorqued intake manifold bolts, replaced ignition coils with aftermarket(Pertronix)ones and NGK iridium plugs, checked fuel pressure which was perfect @ 55 to 63 psi, swapped left & right bank injectors and code stayed in left bank. This code sets after about 250 to 400 miles on a long highway run, usually at higher altitudes. I checked all PCM parameters with my diagnostic scanner(Autel unit)and they were well within limits, and fuel short & long trim settings are below 3%.
Mods on this car include ported throttle body from Fastman, stock factory R/T Challenger exhaust(2.5" diameter as opposed to 2.25" stock), a set of JBA shorty headers and a Diablosport 91 octane canned tune with parameters adjusted accordingly for 180 thermostat, trans reprogram kit installed and shift firmness in tuner set to "firm"(car has a NAG1 5 speed Mercedes trans), and runs on premium fuel.
This code manifested itself after installing the shorty headers, thinking the placement of the 02 sensors is wrong in the headers as they screw in right in front of just one header tube instead of in the main exhaust stream. 02's read normal between 2-8 volts while running though, just food for thought.
This is a good one and will test anyone's troubleshooting skills for sure. Am trying to stay away from the dealer as there is a TSB for this very problem that is active at this time, and don't want them messing up my tuning!
 
Hey did you ever figure this out? My SRT is having the exact same problem
My issue turned out to be exactly the placement of the O2 sensor bung in the left bank shorty header(using JBA shortys on my 300C, fit nice and work well w/standard cats), it was reading exhaust from only one cylinder instead of all 4 like the other side was. I verified this by installing O2 sensor bungs in the mid pipes just below the flange on either side(used my spare set of mids from my Challenger)and moving the upstream sensors there, and capped off the bungs in the headers. Problem solved! No more CEL or stored DTC's since I did that mod early this past year.
If you have an SRT, it may have an actual bad upstream O2 sensor in your right bank. Easy to change, did all 4 in my Chrysler's 5.7 hemi. Keep in mind '15 and later SRT/392's have downstream O2 sensors that screw into the cat itself about 1/2 way down, shouldn't make any difference though. 5.7 is set up that way since '10, I believe.
Keep us posted!
 
I have the same issue going on with my '14 Chrysler 300C throwing a P219A code which is left bank. Trouble is, have checked everything, and this car runs absolutely perfect with 245 psi compression across the board in all cylinders, and leakdown taken on a couple of cylinders came up well below 10%. Valvetrain is intact, inspected that and no issues noted, retorqued intake manifold bolts, replaced ignition coils with aftermarket(Pertronix)ones and NGK iridium plugs, checked fuel pressure which was perfect @ 55 to 63 psi, swapped left & right bank injectors and code stayed in left bank. This code sets after about 250 to 400 miles on a long highway run, usually at higher altitudes. I checked all PCM parameters with my diagnostic scanner(Autel unit)and they were well within limits, and fuel short & long trim settings are below 3%.
Mods on this car include ported throttle body from Fastman, stock factory R/T Challenger exhaust(2.5" diameter as opposed to 2.25" stock), a set of JBA shorty headers and a Diablosport 91 octane canned tune with parameters adjusted accordingly for 180 thermostat, trans reprogram kit installed and shift firmness in tuner set to "firm"(car has a NAG1 5 speed Mercedes trans), and runs on premium fuel.
This code manifested itself after installing the shorty headers, thinking the placement of the 02 sensors is wrong in the headers as they screw in right in front of just one header tube instead of in the main exhaust stream. 02's read normal between 2-8 volts while running though, just food for thought.
This is a good one and will test anyone's troubleshooting skills for sure. Am trying to stay away from the dealer as there is a TSB for this very problem that is active at this time, and don't want them messing up my tuning!
Mark,
I had the same problem with my 14 challenger. I took it to a trusted mechanic who couldn't find any problems and then said it might be a tsb update.
The dealership said they would do the update for $50 but I was concerned because it would reflash the tune on my car. I think the tsb update is a way to prevent people from tuning as I did it, the MDS came on (annoying). I did the tsb update and then retuned the car and good until about 3 weeks when cel turned on again. I said screw it and cleared the code. I was close to just turning in my car and getting a truck but I love it too much with the bolt ons I did.
 
Mark,
I had the same problem with my 14 challenger. I took it to a trusted mechanic who couldn't find any problems and then said it might be a tsb update.
The dealership said they would do the update for $50 but I was concerned because it would reflash the tune on my car. I think the tsb update is a way to prevent people from tuning as I did it, the MDS came on (annoying). I did the tsb update and then retuned the car and good until about 3 weeks when cel turned on again. I said screw it and cleared the code. I was close to just turning in my car and getting a truck but I love it too much with the bolt ons I did.
The P219A code turned out to be a poorly placed O2 sensor bung in the left side shorty header. It was reading only 1 cylinder instead of all 4 on that bank(left bank). Moved my upstream O2 sensors down about 2 inches into the top part of the mid pipes and my Chrysler has been running flawlessly ever since, about a year and 1/2 now.
Manufacturer of the shorty headers has been notified of the discrepancy I discovered so they can make a better product. See my above post dated 1-1-2023.
 
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